V70 D5 - oil level low

[AndyV7o]

Well said fella!

[Clan]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-zDt9FGJi8&t=1095s

[AndyV7o]

An oil designed for 20k intervals, meaning that 20k by mobils own admission by association is an extreme target to reach. Tested in a petrol v8 on a highway cycle, i.e. low stress environment. This goes to show that 18k oci's in an urban diesel using normal oil is really asking a whole lot of the oil, right to its ragged-edge.
Modern oils can do 18k but they arent performing well by then, theyre hanging on for dear-life.
The mobil 20k is decent stuff thats for sure. 👍

The best thing anyone can do is get used oil analysis' carried out, you can the build up a picture of how your engine/oil/environment are panning out, and thus find the optimum oci for your personal situation.
Without this, its best to play it safe and change at a sensible rather than extended oci, 10-15k dependant on use. If running mobil 20k and there arent any ifs & buts in their small print about use and environment, then yeah go for it, if owt ever does go wrong you can claim off mobil

Interesting watch though Clan ta!
That guy does a lot of good stuff, kinda reminds me of an automotive Brian Cox. He does get sponsored sometimes by a company and thus skews his info to look positive on that product a little, but hes pretty honest and there for good.

[GrahamBrown1]

Email Volvo, see if you get a reply...... perhaps you should see if they will give you a job and then you can put all there oil downfalls to rights and show there engineers how to go about the job!

[Tannaton]

Interesting thread this...

My thoughts - firstly if you're going to dive into the oil quality and life argument you need to differentiate between the types of wear your engine is subject to and how oil counteracts that:

http://www.substech.com/dokuwiki/dok...anisms_of_wear

Secondly - although I too favor more frequent oil changes - I ask myself when was the last time I or anyone I know had a problem with a worn engine that needed work before the car was "end of life" ?

Most engines these days are changed as a result of a catastrophic failure that was not oil related (thrown rod, cambelt, overheating etc.) not because they have worn bearings and pistons.

And then when you get into HGV's and lorries - it's a whole new world with much longer intervals.

[AndyV7o]

Indeed tannaton, it isnt just about whether the engine dies before the body is rusted, its maintaining efficiency, emissions, exhaust aftertreatment, turbos. As has been mentioned before the PSA 1.6 hdi for example must have the right oil every 10k as doing otherwise does cause engine problems. Citroen/peugeot themselves aknowledge this and reduced the oci whilst giving very stringent oil change stipulations. This is largely down to a poor engine design rather than the oil, but it highlights what is going on with the oil in order for the problems to occur which are preventable by correct oci's.
Most turbo deaths are the result of heat and oil oxidisation, a high quality clean oil has a significant impact upon the reduction of this (along with people just waiting a mo before switching off, and manufacturers who dont put the dpf immediately below the turbo).
Some engines are more tolerant than others, and some dont treat tge oil as bad as others, some oils are better than others. Nevertheless you still get a similar situation with the oil. 18k in a low stressed petrol is not too bad at all for a quality oil, but 18k in a harshly used diesel is asking a lot.

Each to their own, you do what ya see fit.
If you want to maintain full performance, efficiency, emissions, avoid turbo/cat/dpf problems it is a wiser choice to change oil earlier. This is said by engine and oil experts the world over. Some insist that 6k is still the way to go, that is a waste of oil because the oil can -comfortably- handle 10-15k (dependant upon use) but it struggles after that.
When you encounter an engine that has done 4-500k+ you tend to find that they religiously perforned shorter oci's. This is a great example, the original owner (featured in a later video) did 8k oci's https://youtu.be/Wk-isKUjWBQ


My info is based upon hours upon hours of research, from anecdotal forum waffle, to things written by oil chemists and engine builders, Virgin oil analysis and used oil analysis, etc etc etc..... Im not just someone with half assed ideas based on hearsay. Not a qualified tribologist either, though Im tempted to maybe start an OU course or something.

Im here to help and provide valid info that isnt hearsay or common misunderstanding. Im not here to be a dick or rule the forum.
I wish you could all appreciate how mind-numbing it is to understand engine oil at this level, it takes some serious brain frying and laying awake at night. Thats just to get a relatively basic understanding in reality (but advanced enough to understand whats actually happening).

Peace- out guys, Im not the anti-christ, just trying to help, genuinely. If I argue its because Im trying to clarify a misunderstanding. If I recommend something its just that, a recommendation, ya do what ya please, its not for me to dictate, and never would.
Please read the wording of my posts, you'll find that unless I present a fact and state that it is fact, it is guidance... 👍



(For example, A5/B5 should NOT be used in place of A3/B4, as it -could- result in engine damage. This is FACT.
It is -adviseable- to change oil earlier than extended drain intervals if you wish to keep your car working as it should for longer, but you may not be bothered as you wont have your car all that way down the line. GUIDANCE)

[Waynedance]

Blimey you seem to know your stuff and have some spare times on your hands. I am a big believer in using the correct oils and changing early.

I have been using Comma Voltech 0w-30 ACEA A5/B5 OIL and change at 9k ish.

Good write up, thanks.