D4 VEA Exhaust gas pressure sensor

[Pointer7]

Originally Posted by Baffler

To stop you from loosing the copper washer you could tie/loop a length of thread through the banjo and copper washer whilst you get a start on the bolt, and then pull the thread out before tightening the rest of the way.

Just to add I removed and cleaned the inlet manifold pressure sensor yesterday and, at first sight, I thought it was melted but was actually heavily encrusted in carbon deposits. I gently removed the deposits with a miniature screwdriver, an old toothbrush and carb cleaner.

Apologies, no pics prior to cleaning as my gloves were filthy.

Hi Baffler,

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I am having the same issue with my D4, feels like a flat spot around 1500-2000 rpm, is it possible to clean it in situ? I have stuffed a brake cable down there and it does go a fair way in but is it safe to spray something down the pipe and then try the cable again? is there anything at the bottom of the pipe that might be damaged from spraying cleaner in there?

[Clan]

Originally Posted by Pointer7

Hi Baffler,

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I am having the same issue with my D4, feels like a flat spot around 1500-2000 rpm, is it possible to clean it in situ? I have stuffed a brake cable down there and it does go a fair way in but is it safe to spray something down the pipe and then try the cable again? is there anything at the bottom of the pipe that might be damaged from spraying cleaner in there?

It's the Thin connecting pipe which blocks, volvo always fit a new pipe with the sensor. It is such a small bore and has a bend ( to damp out pulses) that it is impossible to poke through. The sensor cant be cleaned successfully either if the diaphragm and inner chamber of the sensor is covered in soot . Hopefully the latest software helps it to stay working longer !

[Baffler]

Originally Posted by Pointer7

Hi Baffler,

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I am having the same issue with my D4, feels like a flat spot around 1500-2000 rpm, is it possible to clean it in situ? I have stuffed a brake cable down there and it does go a fair way in but is it safe to spray something down the pipe and then try the cable again? is there anything at the bottom of the pipe that might be damaged from spraying cleaner in there?

The banjo end of the pipe is attached to downpipe so any crud you manage to push through or fluid you spray down there will most likely end up on the DPF. Will the crud be cleared during or after the next regen...you can't be certain...hence why I removed the complete pipe.

The inner brake cable I used was about one foot in length whilst spraying cleaner and working the cable at the same time it eventually cleared after about 30 mins but remember this was off the car.

The EMAP sensor itself is some form of piezoelectric sensor so gently clean away any carbon with spray cleaner to reveal the tip within the recess.

Use gloves and eye protection!

[Pointer7]

Thanks both for your advice, much appreciated.

I actually had the engine carbon cleaned with hydrogen and it so much smoother and quieter but still has this hesitation, he also checked that the EGR was moving freely before he did the clean and it was fine and also a diagnostic check revealed only 8g of soot in the DPF so I'm confident its this EMAP pipe

[Ard]

morning All

i have the same problem with my 2014 model 181 xc60 with the twin turbo, i had a look over the weekend and i manged to remove all but the heat shield to gain access from underneath, but how on earth do you get the shield out the way as its behind the oil return pipe for the right turbo or is it a case of bending out the way, information greatly received

ta

[Pointer7]

I'm fairly sure you can loosen one of the nuts holding it and bend the shield out the way...

I've given up on mine now, the pipe is clear as I can shove a bike brake cable all the way down and I can hear air coming out of it when the sensor is removed so i'm just living with it now..