Engine: T5: 2007 2401cc S60 Swirl Control Arm

[Stephen2015]

Just wondering if someone could point me in the right direction on how the Swirl Control Arm works.
I was checking over the engine and found the plastic connecting arm has come unattached from the swirl motor (balljoint) so what I done was removed the plastic arm and used a heat gun to just close the end up a little so this so this was a tighter fit on the balljoint.
This click into place and moved freely. I would like to know if the swirl motor arm is working as the arm on the swirl motor seem to stay in one place when engine not running (cannot move arm away from engine. how can I test to see if this is moving when the engine is running is there a trick to test this.

All I need to know if this is working all ok. Engine done 215,000 miles, when idling all smooth, when driving engine picked up speed well.

Appreciate any advise given.

Regards Stephen

[SkintKnuckles]

Hi Stephen,

I don't have the same car as you but the engine is common (I have a 185 bhp D5 V70).

The swirl arm is moved by an almighty actuator right in front of the swirl arm connector/ balljoint that had come loose. This is nigh on impossible to move by hand. Someone on here may well have a better test than the following, but for what its worth, see below:

The swirl arm actuator recalibrates/finds 'home' every 5th or 6th time you power down the engine. You will hear this very clearly when its moving as its quite noisy, and the engine is off. The actuator will do this movement irrespective of whether the swirl arm rod is connected or not. Thus, I recommend starting/stopping the engine a number of times (with the bonnet up) and when you hear the actuator moving run round to the engine and see whats happening, and if everything is moving correctly etc.

The swirl arm being disconnected can throw up the odd DTC code, but often not at all. More importantly, my guess is that your fix won't hold. This is not a criticism, merely that the original connecting rod, as new, can't stand up to the overpowered actuator. IMHO this is a fundamental design fault that Volvo should have sorted, but didn't.

The official Volvo fix is hugely expensive i.e. noprth of £1000. Ridiculous!! There is a Volvo kit for a quick bodge, which is simply a flat headed pin with a compression collar to hold the nail in place. You drill the ball joint and the flap on the swirl arm controller to accept the nail. This volvo repair kit is inexpensive (maybe 5-7 quid). However, it isn't a great fix, it doesn't last well and getting access is an absolute bitch (for putting on the retaining ring).

My advice is to get a flat headed nail (pence), with an external diameter of ~1.5 mm. Then cut it to length so that it can act as a retaining pin for the swirl arm. Ensure that its sufficiently short that it doesn't foul on the engine casing during the normal range of movement of the swirl arm. Rather than drill the ball joint just insert the aforementioned nail when its red hot. This takes 1 min to heat the nail and goes through the ball joint instantly. Then use a blob of solder to seal the pin in place. OK, this is a bit Heath Robinson, but its rock solid, stronger than the Volvo kit, costs nothing and eliminates all the heartache with getting access to drill the flap and insert the retaining ring. I've been there and done that and I prefer the latter fix over the volvo kit.

Hope this helps

cheers
Neil

[4candles]

Good tip skint,

how long has yours been 'fixed'?

[SkintKnuckles]

Hi 4C,

first iteration lasted at least 15 K miles (ish). Not sure when exactly it failed but I then drove it for a couple of years without it attached as there were no DTC codes. Second iteration has been in place for about 1000 miles and still holding and looking as new. I only did it as I had the EGR issues and wasn't sure what was causing the limp mode.

Its not perfect, its definitely not pretty, but easy to do and as cheap as a fix for this can be. For a malcoordinated mook like me, the official volvo kit was a nightmare to fit, as drifting in the retaining washer to lock the pin was pretty damn awkard!

cheers
Neil

[Symes]

The dealer has a tool to fit the lock washer, a sort of waterpump plier type arrangement with a holder for the washer...

I did mine a couple of thousand miles ago with a cut down 3mm bolt, a couple of flat washers and a pair of nuts to lock (didn't have a 3mm nyloc to hand) , a drop of threadlock and it's all holding together well. Fiddly to get the nuts started on the threads, but not impossible! :-)

[Stephen2015]

Many thanks for getting back with some top tips, every little helps