850 Cars: Newbie post re tailgate need to slam it shut

[zaksleep]

Hi there,

Newbie here. First post so I hope I have observed the rules. I have I hope the correct forum for my 1996 850 T5 Estate 'issue'.

Bought the car about 2 weeks ago and am getting stuck in to sort it out. Its been standing best part of 3 years so lots of niggles and need for TLC.

One issue I would like some advice on is the 'need' for me to slam (and cringe) the tailgate to get it latch properly. Seems excessive and I have looked but don't see (blind?) a simple way to adjust the proximity of the latch and catch mechanism. What am I missing please?

I will be cracking on with getting it running better on Thursday so may get time to look at the tailgate then.

Thanks for any wisdom! Cheers

[ijmorrison]

Sounds silly (and I guess someone else will be along with a better idea soon) but I would get some bog standard grease and lather it over both the catch and the lock mechanism .. after a few goes it should get easier !

I have a similar issue with bonnet catches ... covered in grease ... open on first pull ... grease wears off and its pull the release lift partly, back pull again, lift again ...

Volvo's (especially older ones) love grease ! Well worth pottering around it once a month doing all the moving bits !

Iain

1998 V70 TDI 251000 miles
1999 S70 T5 106000 miles

[czech240]

If you take off the plastic trim all will become apparent. The 850's had problems with the latch part that is secured to the boot floor breaking/bending and in turn letting the tailgate rattle. Volvo re-manufactured the part. Maybe the previous owner adjusted it so it was a tighter fit.

See how you go

[brickman]

On an 850 you might have to remove the lower plastic trim piece that covers the latch on the body of hte car next to the bumper. On V70 you can adjust it without removing.

Takes a torx bit, T40 or T45 I think? Make sure you clean out the splines first and get a good fit with your tool as they are in there tight + corrosion = stripped heads and then you'll be there for a while drilling them out.

Volvo make a superseded part which is much better, I don't think they are a lot to buy from Volvo, maybe £20? Included new bolts too when I got mine.

However if the boot has been rattling against the body for years, you will have other problems... Boot seal will be worn flat in places, the bump stops on the edges of the boot lid will be worn as will the paint and zinc coat, and the most expensive bit is the lock mechanism itself**

**Before greasing the hell out of it, clean the mechanism and catch and examine for wear, high chance that its ovalised from years of rattling loose. In which case either replace.... or wrap black insulation tape around the catch on the body, either way

Adjustment is a fine science when they are slightly worn, its either too tight and you have to push the boot down/slam to get it to shut properly, or too loose and rattles on rough roads causing noise and wear to the other parts.

[zaksleep]

Thank you, all for your top advice. I am encouraged that I don't have to live with it like that and with some TLC and perhaps a new part at minimal outlay I CAN adjust it and improve its operation.

Grease, after a good clean up of both parts, sounds like a good plan to start with and if that doesn't fix it I will whip the cover off and 'all will be revealed'. Its good to know that a better part was made as well.

The door hinges (and I will take a look at the bonnet latch while I am at it) need it.

Hope it isnt raining on Thursday as I have high hopes for a good step in bringing the car upto a more reliable and useful state.

Lots more questions to follow!

Thanks again.

[brickman]

I think there are bolts on the door hinges you can remove and put a grease gun onto. Just make sure the door doesn't swing away from you as I think they also work as bump stops.

On drivers door especially make sure the check strap is tight and both bolts are still there. Should be a 10mm nut to tighten (don't go crazy, about 10Nm is enough). If one of them is missing the check strap is broken, again an easy fix with a new part or find a still good one in a scrappy for a fiver.

The door hinges do respond well to some good thick gloopy grease injected into them. Any kind of spray grease is too thin and likely does more harm then good.

[zaksleep]

So this is to wrap up and provide feedback to all the helpful people.

I cleaned up then WD40 the torx screws holding down the trim around the tailgate latch mechanism. It all came off cleanly (but at the top of the 'U' there appears to be some sort of catch mechanism thats missing so its flapping on both sides...) and then cleaned up and WD40 (waited 20 mins) and with some brute force the torx bolts holding the latch onto the floor pan came undone.

Brought it forwards slightly and retightened. Bingo! No need to slam it to get it to latch. Cleaned up and greased the mechanism in the hatch itself and tick thats sorted.

While I had the grease out... I did the door hinges - thanks for the top tip. I would add to others NOT to unscrew them completely as it was a SOB to re-align and get the bolts back in. Now now squeaky doors.

So far, I have changed the oil & filter, fuel filter, fuel pump, air filter, top large engine mount, bottom engine mount, HT leads, disti cap & rotor arm. I think it needs a good long run now to settle down.

Cambelt and cabin heater matrix are next up (need to save up as the cambelt is beyond my techie skills).

Anything else I should do? Second baby due mid Dec so I need to get it running reliably and I won't have time to sort out then.

Cheers

[brickman]

I would just change the coolant (genuine coolant will only run you £15-17 for the antifreeze then £2 for de-ionised water, vs. £13-15 for generic stuff. Pretty sure its just the standard blue glycerol, but might as well go genuine when its only a few quid more. Looks better in the service history if for no other reason.

DOor hinges, sorry didn't mean to remove the whole hinge, just the funny little reverse torx bolts that sit along the axis of the hinge.