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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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rust under rear windowViews : 2238 Replies : 7Users Viewing This Thread : |
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May 30th, 2011, 19:02 | #1 |
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rust under rear window
As if a decomposing tailgate would not be bad enough, a nasty rust spot has started to develop under the left side rear window, estate cargo area (see pic). More alarming is that spot gets wet when raining thus it seems window is leaking water either between rubber trim and glass or rubber trim and body. Volvo green book suggests to remove window, drill out rivet, seal hole (rivet hole? – dunno) with body sealant and install new sealing list part nr.: 1372174. Could somebody please comment on this job, do I really need a new sealing list from Volvo or is it possible to find a suitable alternative/another solution. I gather from previous posts that removal of the rear window is by pushing the rubber trim over the metal lip from the inside, working slowly around. Never done that before and I’m a bit scared what I’ll find under that rubber trim…..
Thanks for your input, Regards, Laszlo |
May 30th, 2011, 21:08 | #2 |
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You will find a lot of rust when you remove your rear window. The lip at the point it has rusted will almost certainly be non-existant. Really new metal needs letting in after cutting out and then painting it all well before refitting. I suspect that you have the early estate with big bumpers. On the later ones the design of the rubber was altereed and also a drain hole incorporated in the metal work.
The old rubber should be re-useable still with using a suitable non-setting mastic.
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May 30th, 2011, 21:48 | #3 |
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The rust on the inside of my rear windows is the only area of rust, and is the main reason that is stopping me spending any real money on repairs.
I imagine once I start to investigate it proper ....it will turn into a very very big job. |
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May 31st, 2011, 07:17 | #4 |
Ovlovnut
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I would suggest you take a peek under the boot carpet and under the rear seat-back. In the area of the shocks. Also the rearmost 'lip' in front of the rear bumper.
Sounds like I am being a 'right doom & gloom merchant'.... Just thought it'd be a wise move to check these points, whilst you are in there. Hoping they're okay
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Jun 1st, 2011, 18:38 | #5 |
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Hi Mike and thanks, that's my fear that I'm not going to find lip at all above the rusty area. My car is a '87 estate with later type rear window seals and four drain holes along the bottom edge of the rubber. I agree that a reliable and long term solution would be to cut and weld but I cannot do that myself and there are no small shops, indies, friendly mechanics, etc. at this part of the world just shiny brand services unwilling to do body work or if they do, quoting astronomical sums. I'm bit hesitant about this window job because this is not the only problematic area that needs attention but this leads to Paul's comments. Metal under the boot carpet and under the rear seat is intact as well as rear shock area. However, rearmost lip in front of rear bumper is perished at places mainly because of small rust holes along the bottom edge of tailgate window letting in water and keeping everything moist at all times. My plan was to replace tailgate this summer and address rearmost lip as per Honestjoe's protocol but now I'm not sure where to start, if I want to do anything at all. Engine-wise she is fine, starts at sub zeroes without problem and so far (since 2006) has never let me down. After all the suspension work I’ve done I really enjoy the ride and can say that in a way I’m attached to her. Yet body shows her age and I cannot establish the right conditions (covered dry space, welding, time, etc) to make a reasonable and lasting bodywork no matter how I try.
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Jun 1st, 2011, 21:25 | #6 |
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It would be worth lifting the rubber in the affected area from the inside - slide something like a wide screwdriver up close to the rust and lift the rubber a little. This will give you and idea how bad the metal is corroded. It is likely that using something like a roof and gutter sealant - non setting bitumous masticup behind the inner part of the rubber could certainly stem a lot of the water ingress.
As regards the lip going to the rear bumper again short term repairs can be done using glassfibre and filler as it is non structural. No reason not to keep it running a few more years. Of course if you fancy a holiday in the UK sometime . . .
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Jun 2nd, 2011, 18:21 | #7 |
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Mike, I'll follow your advice and try to seal rear window, doing so will hopefully delay spreading of rust for a while. Maybe someday I'll have a better chance in to address issue at a more professional manner. Thank you very much for your kind offer, this is the reason why I like this forum, competent, responsive and always helpful chaps around, it's a privilege to be here, thanks
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Jun 2nd, 2011, 19:07 | #8 |
Chief Bodger
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New metal is always the best solution but you may get away with a repair like this and it's something everyone can do and then with the window sealed properly you might not need to do a proper repair for a while: http://www.vclassics.com/archive/rust101.htm
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