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D5 issues, turbo adjustment

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Old Oct 6th, 2011, 23:31   #81
fgx318
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Hi there,

Good news for me today ! My D5 engine doesn't go into limp mode anymore, it's fixed ! It pulls as it should, reaches 5000 rpm, kickdown are strong, bref, it works !

I had time today, so I decided to remove the turbo from the engine, put it on the bench and dismantle it.

Here are some photos I took to show how I proceeded and that it's a pretty easy task apart from the soot I can't get rid off my fingers...

The beast



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Remove the clip



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Remove the 3 bolts that hold the actuator, remove it and undo the 4 remaining bolts



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Now take a soft hammer and gently tap on the body, it comes easily, don't be shy on the use of WD40



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Aaah ! there we are ! What's inside....?



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As you will see in the video, the vanes are stuck and in need of a thorough cleaning... Undo the 3 screws



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Pull the "vanes carrier" off of the body...



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Be careful not to lose the sleeves...



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Clean every parts, brush them, soak them in WD40 or something more corosive, anything that can remove the soot and leave your parts spotless and crystal clear ! Ultrasonic cleaning would have been my best bet but I had no time to find and go to a company that supply this service... So parts are cleaned and back in place, the ring and plate are moving freely, smoothly, at this moment I felt pretty confident.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

With the turbo almost "new" I reinstalled it on the engine, changed the gaskets, seals, nuts and started the engine my left hand touching wood and my right hand fingers crossed. It's 10pm, dark outside, I finished working under the car with a torch light for only light exactly what not to do... had a last check, no leaks, no weird sounds, no smoke, no fire, ok I went for a test drive... It sounds good the transmission shifts as it did in the past (when the car used to work), engine runs smooth. I accelerate to 2500 rpm, no problem, let's try 3000 rpm, no problem, good ! It's WOT time, unthinkable this morning, limp mode past 2400 for sure !!! And here we go 2500-3000-3500-4500-redline, fantastic...! Power is back, torque is back, my leadfoot is back !
I will do some vacuum tests tomorow with the gauge just to confirm that everything is fine.

The videos are uploading at the moment, I will post them tomorrow...
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Old Oct 6th, 2011, 23:57   #82
fgx318
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Finally vids are uploaded... A transcript is available if you don't understand my poor english....Lol !!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5GC1Jc267IM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xyptm_YZEYM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nueGWJjNoqg
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Old Oct 7th, 2011, 06:51   #83
outnumbered
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well done Fred and a very nice right up.i bet you have a smile on your face.low mileage and crap fuel will not help these cars, a good result we got there in the end and you saved a few penny's. thanks for the write up and the video's.
mike
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Old Oct 7th, 2011, 07:44   #84
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Excellent post *fgx318*, I'm glad you got your car sorted. Interesting to note that your actuator appeared to work normally before the clean too, (apart from the small amount of play)...
Your piccies/videos will defininately help should I choose to do this as a last resort.
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Old Oct 7th, 2011, 07:46   #85
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it will be very interesting to see what the vac figures are now
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Old Oct 7th, 2011, 08:46   #86
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Fred did you put the mitty vac on the actuator to see what the vac was at the turbo before you put it back on the car.
mike
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Old Oct 7th, 2011, 15:31   #87
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Thanks for the comments !

Unfortunatly Mike, I didn't keep actuator vac figures for record. Now for the vacuum figures on the TGC side, I'm fairly disappointed ! They look very similar than before... Looks like the turbo is still building up to much pressure and the ecm still trying to correct via the TGC ! Here are some vids I took today. The first on is vacuum gauge connected in line between TGC and and actuator with the engine pads disconnected :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_T3JfzdJLsI

Second one is same gauge location but with engine pads connected this time

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NM_TKCLZsAg

And third one is as previous but during driving just for information

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YdpEuEzWctI

The car still performs well, doesn't smoke, doesn't hesitate, I just feel that from 2000some to 3000 there is a big "woooosh" from the turbo like some air is blowing strong, this noise is louder than it was.

As you show in a video Mike, figures can be different from two TGC, so I'm going to try the old one to see if there is any difference.
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Old Oct 7th, 2011, 16:28   #88
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Fred,
when you connect the vac gauge in line to the turbo the readings should be the same should they not, on your first video with pads not connected you have 20 hg pads connected you needle is fluctuating as mine is in all four video's that i posted. if the ecu is telling the TCG that no vac is needed and not pulsing why are you getting 20hg on the out port with pads not connected.
mike
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Last edited by outnumbered; Oct 7th, 2011 at 16:31.
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Old Oct 7th, 2011, 16:50   #89
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whatever the figure of hg that the vac pump is putting out you should have that on the inport at the TCG, the figure will change when the pads are not getting vac. the figure then changes on the out port as and when vac is required for the turbo. that's the way i see it .
mike
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Last edited by outnumbered; Oct 7th, 2011 at 16:52.
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Old Oct 7th, 2011, 18:25   #90
fgx318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outnumbered View Post
Fred,
when you connect the vac gauge in line to the turbo the readings should be the same should they not, on your first video with pads not connected you have 20 hg pads connected you needle is fluctuating as mine is in all four video's that i posted. if the ecu is telling the TCG that no vac is needed and not pulsing why are you getting 20hg on the out port with pads not connected.
mike
Mike,
Just to avoid any mistake, when you say 20hg you mean InHg (the outer graduations are Inch Hg on my gauge), if so everything is fine here.


My concerns are the following :
At idle, no vacuum in the pads, and needle is fluctuating - Same as yours

Past 1100 vacuum is derivated from tcv vent to the pads and vacuum then increase in the whole system, providing approx 600 mmhg to the turbo actuator, vanes are in "full boost" position - Same as yours

As engine revs up, less turbo boost is needed so the ECM send current to the TCG so that less vacuum is applied to the actuator - Same as yours

Past 2200 rpm vacuum drops to 150 mmhg where yours drops to 350 mmhg.

On my workmate's car it also drops to 350 and don't decrease anymore.

Since mine is still decreasing I just think that the ECM have the information that to much turbo boost is built up past 2200 rpm and try to correct this turbo boost by sending a signal to the TCG so that less vacuum applies to the actuator, correcting the turbo boost... Not easy to explain...

Anyway, the fact is that the engine works perfectly, and as you bet in a previous post I have a big smile on my face !

However, thanks again for your help Mike and thanks to all of you here, you definetly help me on this one and avoid a waste of money....
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