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Guide: Replacing the boot wiring harness

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Old Jun 25th, 2014, 22:53   #1
Snoodini
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Default Guide: Replacing the boot wiring harness

Hi,

I just replaced the wiring harness and lock mechanism on my MY2011 S40. It would seem that it is a common fault with this car that the wiring harness begins to break around the articulation point of the boot lid. Theres already at least one other guide on the swespeed on how to do this but I thought I would do an updated guide with more pictures. I hope people will find this useful.

This may be required if your car has any of the following symptoms:
  • Boot Lid open message that won't go away despite it being firmly locked
  • Boot Lid not opening despite fuse being OK
  • License plate lights not functioning despite OK fuse and bulbs

Parts Needed
  • Replacement Boot wiring harness: 8697604. I bought mine through a friend who is the internal parts purchaser for a local volvo dealership and service chain. It cost me 369 Swedish Crowns (32 at the exchange rate at the time of writing)

Tools Needed
  • Large Flat Screwdriver
  • Pliers
  • Small flat Screwdriver
  • T25 (or if you're careful T20) Torx driver
  • 10mm Socket or spanner (only needed if your boot won't open)

Time Required
Under 1 hour

If your boot will not open
If your boot will not open then it will take you longer and you will have a rather more tricky task ahead of you as you will need to do some of the steps plus a little extra from inside the boot. The steps to do this are a little different from the steps provided here, notably, step 1 can not be done as it requires that the boot is open. In your case you must remove the panel and let it flop down so that you can access the three 10mm bolts which attach the lock to the boot lid. you will also need to unplug the cable from it to be able to finally open the boot. To release the lock once you have it open you will need to connect your new wiring harness up (without routing the cable through the bodywork). I didn't need to do it this way so I have no pictures of it.

Alternatively, save all that bother if you have a North American sold model by just pulling the emmergengy release to open it...

The Procedure

1. Firstly you need to release the plastic cover from the locking mechanism. There are two clips which hold this on to the body of the lock mechanism, one is circled in red (the other is on the other side in the same position). to release the clips just slide your screwdriver in from the side and lever the clip away from the lock body. The cover now slides away.




2. Remove the hand grip. It is held to the body work by clips. Two on the wider side and one on the narrower side. Insert your screwdriver on the narrower side (the bottom edge) and apply firm but gentle pressure. At the same time pull the grip towards you and it should pop out. Be carefull not to push too hard on the clip as it is a single moulded piece and would need to be replaced if you break it.




3. You now need to remove the carpet trim from the boot lid. There are a number of plastic clips holding this in place and they can be popped off either by pulling with your finger nails or with a flat bladed screwdriver. If your car is fitted with a warning triangle holder as mine is then to remove this you just pull the pin out from the centre of each bracket, this pin releases the clips and they pull away very easily.



Pull the panel away from the boot past the lock and the two bumpers.



4. Disconnect the connector for the boot lock, you will need a small flat screwdriver to release the clip on the connector. The wiring is held in place with clips which are pushed through holes in the bodywork. remove these with pliers, some of them can be pretty stubborn, pull hard and don't worry about breaking them, they are only designed to be fitted once, the new wiring harness comes with clips installed.




5. Remove the boot handle by unscrewing the 4 torx screws (Circled in red) which secure it then disconnect the connector. There will be some resistance when you pull the handle piece away. There are a couple of clips which retain it however these are weak and there is no risk you will damage them by pulling it away





6. Disconnect the other end of the wiring harness (Circled red). the connection is in the top of the boot on the left hand side. it's easily accessible There are three more clips holding the wiring in place and a couple of them can be a bit of a b*#ch to remove.



7. Newer models of the S40 have an extra piece which holds the rubber conduit in place. if yours has this then you will need to remove it, by removing the two torx screws.




8. Remove the wiring harness. The rubber boots all just pull out of place from the body.

9. Install the new wiring harness by reversing everything that you just did. Take care to ensure the rubber boots are sitting correctly in the bodywork and that you do not twist the cabling. NOTE: I advise that you test the operation of it all before inserting the cable clips into the holes in the bodywork just to be sure everything is okay.

The replacement wiring harness I got seemed to be a touch more generous with cable length than the one I removed:



Here you can see the damage to the old wiring harness. the break was just inside the rubber conduit. one of the wires was completely severed with a couple of others on their way.

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Old Jun 26th, 2014, 06:33   #2
Welton
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Fantastic guide, well done, I'm sure this will be a valuable thread for the future.

And look at the colour of that Sky, beautiful!
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Old Jun 27th, 2014, 01:50   #3
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Super guide mate, we need more of these like this one on here! I've subscribed for future reference
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Old Jun 29th, 2014, 18:18   #4
Snoodini
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Thanks for the positive responses guys!

I always like to research and plan how i'm going to do something before i do it so tha there's no suprises when i'm doing it.... i figure there's others like me so like to know what they're facing.
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Old Aug 25th, 2014, 10:23   #5
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Excellent guide. :-)
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Old Aug 26th, 2014, 09:29   #6
chriscs40
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This is fantastic, thanks for posting, I am due to replace my Wiring harness this week, I'm just waiting for the part to arrive at the main dealers. However I just noticed that both of my 12V sockets aren't working either - would these be linked to the faulty boot wiring harness, or not?
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Old Aug 27th, 2014, 09:36   #7
Snoodini
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscs40 View Post
This is fantastic, thanks for posting, I am due to replace my Wiring harness this week, I'm just waiting for the part to arrive at the main dealers. However I just noticed that both of my 12V sockets aren't working either - would these be linked to the faulty boot wiring harness, or not?
No, the dead 12V sockets should not be related to the boot wiring at all. the 12V sockets are on their own fuse and it's relatively easy to short them out. most likely candidate is just a blown fuse.
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Old Aug 27th, 2014, 18:36   #8
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A very good guide.

I had the same problem a few years ago, I soldered mine back together, sleeved each repair (only 2 wires) with heat shrink tube (tape would have done) and a little tape around the loom, worked fine for years. Cost is just time and I did not need to remove the loom.
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Old Aug 27th, 2014, 21:28   #9
chriscs40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snoodini View Post
No, the dead 12V sockets should not be related to the boot wiring at all. the 12V sockets are on their own fuse and it's relatively easy to short them out. most likely candidate is just a blown fuse.
Spot on thanks for this, blown fuse found and replaced (no.45 in Glove Compartment fuse box)
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Old Sep 9th, 2014, 16:45   #10
halvarvonflake
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Default well done snoodini!!

very goood guide! Just bought a S40 (MY2006) for my son and it was coming with exactly the same problem, boot won't open. we managed to get the boot open and tracked the failure down to broken wires just as described in your guide. we made a temporarily rapair and are now waiting for the new harness to come. so far so good.
and now here's my question: is there a cover underneath the rear window shelf (where the connention between the boot wiring and the body is) or is it common for S40's to feature bare metal here??
we were under the impression that somebody had already tried to fix the problem and since then the cover has gone.

regards

halvar von flake
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