fuel filter replacement on facelift 185 d5 xc90

[A lex]

Originally Posted by bobdabuilda

2 helpful responses?! Then we'll agree to disagree.
The thread you direct to says nothing other than to be careful of the plastic and use a new o-ring, unless I've gone blind as well as grumpy!

Is there a pressure relief valve to release before opening the housing, does the fuel pump need to be deactivated beforehand by fuse removal, is there a fuel supply shut off valve before opening the housing to prevent excessive fuel loss, is there a bleed valve to prime the system before starting etc etc. :

Well, im guessing your not blind......

....but grumpy and prickly - yes!

As ive already said - theres nothing more to it then what I have outlined in the other thread. Heck, you even replied in the other thread back in September!!

Just to show theres no hard feelings, and that I wasnt out to give you the hump (even though you seem to enjoy getting it anyway).

-Drain filter housing,
-unscrew filter housing (using caveats outlined in other thread),
-take old filter out,
-put new filter in,
-tighten filter housing,
-start car.

Theres absolutely nothing more to it than that. The only problem will be trying to get the housing off, as they seal incredibly tightly.

[GrahamBrown1]

Alex is exactly right, there is no drama to changing this filter, just follow his steps as above and Youl have no problems. I would advise the use of a strap wrench to move the plastic housing as they are very tight. Starting is easier if you fill the filter housing with diesel and then screw back on with your new filter installed. Turn the ignition on and off a couple of times to allow the system to prime.

[Orangemoon]

Carefully !!!

[Arctic fox]

Bob, the filter housing has no pressure build up when the engine isn't running. However, Volvo say the tank needs to be less than 3/4 full when changing out a filter.

An electric pump in the tank kicks in with ignition on and then with engine running. It's all it needs to pass the diesel onto the high pressure pump to do his job.

The little thumb screw at the bottom of the filter housing (plastic housing) is for draining off water. But can be used to drain off diesel from the housing too.

As suggested you can use an oil filter strap to loosen the plastic housing, likely needed as they are darned tight to release. I suggest only using the woven cloth webbed type of strap and not a metal one. The strap is best used at a specific location ( top or bottom of the housing, I cannot remember so look that up). EDIT; strap to be located around the base of the housing, not the top.

Then once off you can just lift out the paper element, take note of which way is up. New element just drops back in, but be sure to push it home.

At this point you can 3/4 fill the housing (make sure the drain valve is closed at the bottom and put filter in first), filling this up means the pump has to work less to purge the system. I recommend this pre filling as it can cause air locks in the housing if not done. Then it becomes a pita as the housing has to come off again.

So this is what I presume folk do when using some additive in the filter housing.

Use a genuine Volvo seal (should come with a genuine filter) when replacing the old one. I have had three different types of filter in the past, and none of seals they came with actually worked 100%. I don't always preach Genuine OE but for this seal I sure do.

Once it is all back together turn on ignition to position 2 and keep it there for thirty seconds, turn off ignition for 10 seconds, then repeat.
This is done to fill up the rest of the filter housing and push the diesel to the High Pressure pump. Check the filter housing to make sure no leaks.

If OK, Now start the engine as the rest of the system is self purging unlike the good old days.

If engine won't start, repeat the ignition procedure a couple of more times.

Pic below is approx the amount that comes out when filter housing drain is opened. Unless the ignition is turned on, no more should flow as it relies on a pumped pressure. Although to prevent sods law it's always best to have an oil drain tub under there once you have the housing loosened.

EDIT for info; In addition this is from VIDA

Using engine oil, lubricate:
the new O-ring. Prevent it from turning in the filter holder when installing
the fuel filter's seal, press the filter securely into the holder
the filter housing threads and entire surface above the threads that seal against the O-ring. (this bit counts in my book.)

[bobdabuilda]

Just the kind of comprehensive answer I was looking for, thanks Arctic Fox

[dacvolvo]

Hi folks. Is it normal for the old fuel filter to appear black as shown in the above photo? I just changed mine after having driven 9k miles over 12 months and it was exactly as per the above photo. Surely this isn't normal... Is it?

[Chesney46]

Originally Posted by dacvolvo

Hi folks. Is it normal for the old fuel filter to appear black as shown in the above photo? I just changed mine after having driven 9k miles over 12 months and it was exactly as per the above photo. Surely this isn't normal... Is it?

Yep, quite normal. It doesn't take long at all for a diesel fuel filter to turn black, still does its job though. I work on trucks and we had to change some almost every other month due to fuel faults and they were always black. Nothing to worry about.

[CaerYnArfon]

How often are you guys changing the fuel filter?

[dacvolvo]

Every 12 months or 10k miles for me. Whichever happens first.

[colinbos]

This is a simple job, completed today. Just one tip.

Don't fill the filter housing full with fuel, it just goes on the floor, when you offer the housing up, as it is displaced by the new filter.

Half is plenty so you don't spill any. When its ll back together, turn the ignition to position 2, wait 30 seconds, then off. Do this 3 -4 times and it will fill the housing up. Pour the remaining diesel back in the tank.