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Amp light full red on startup?

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Old Oct 8th, 2015, 20:59   #21
Derek UK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbunt View Post
I just put new brushes in... Possible loose wire inside Dyno?!
I have had a wire that comes from the armature windings break. That gives instant red light. Can be soldered back together again if you are lucky. The one I fixed had the other wire break about a year later. Fixed that one too.

If you have a local repairer who still does dynamos he'll likely have a rig that can test it in minutes. Saves you a lot of grief for a few bucks.
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Old Oct 8th, 2015, 22:39   #22
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Hallelujah, success! Took brushes out and cleaned commutator. Brushes themselves were barely touching so I did a little in situ shaping and all is well. Once again something simple, the regulator was bad and the brushes were almost gone and I just was too hasty fitting those brushes...
Thanks all for your help! Almost 6000 miles on her since February!
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Old Oct 16th, 2015, 16:02   #23
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Bb; I'm happy to hear that you got it squared away!

Forum; As a follow-up to this thread, I have translated the (by far best!) linked Generator/Voltage Regulator information/Theory of Operation from German, as a new Tech Article and located it here: http://www.sw-em.com/Bosch%20Generat...n%20Detail.htm

As I noted earlier, adjusting the internal VRegulator contacts requires special tooling and instrumentation, and knowledge/experience, so is not recommended for the casual mechanic.

One can see there is a lot going on in that VReg...and it's all done with magnetism...marvelous stuff!...functional, reliable, and simple (but NOT necessarily easy!).

Cheers from Connecticut!
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Old Oct 17th, 2015, 13:52   #24
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Thanks Ron, and all. Took a good look at the contacts and all inside the old regulator and it really looked pretty good in there, no real evidence of arcing at the "points" and elsewhere. Of course I realize that you can't always see the problem but underside of the box itself was pretty corroded looking. Wondering if any of the electrical bits under there may have been compromised by New England-style salt corrosion?
Regardless, the car's running really well. I find myself using it almost all the time now.Hoping to do bushings this off season. Also tracking down some minor things like one dim taillight and wiring up some new gauges. And there's body work and... So it goes!

And thanks again for all the help you guys gave me. Still enough of a rookie that when things don't get fixed when I "fix" them that I momentarily lose my composure. Especially that electrical mumbo-jumbo!
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Old Oct 17th, 2015, 14:31   #25
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Bb;

...we're glad to help...that's what this Forum is for...regarding the dim Taillight, I suggest you take a look here: http://www.sw-em.com/Amazon_Rear_Lig...estoration.htm ...all reasons (other than simply a dirty or internally plated lamp, which would be very simply remedied) are covered...

Cheers
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Old Oct 17th, 2015, 19:36   #26
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Ron, I think I actually read everything on your Sw-Em site after I got my car 2 years ago. And yes, I did think about trying to do LEDs but if you say it's not so easy, I believe you! And I happen to have some of that aluminum tape and a metal shop so that'll be a good afternoon project this winter... I had the opportunity to be behind my car as my son drive it and I followed in my 850. Definitely noticed taillights being less than brilliant and not equal in power. I know one of them has been mucked around with and needed attention but other mechanical bit seemed more pressing, like brakes and clutch.
Speaking of brakes, I took my booster out when I redid them and the pedal has been a little low and I hadn't gotten around to readjusting until the other day. Lifted it to the height of the clutch and it's amazing how much more confidence inspiring they are. I've always been able to lock them up but having just that little bit more of pedal travel just feels better.
I really love these cars. So much fun, and everybody from juniors to seniors give me thumbs up all the time. Feels great getting this one up and about again!
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Old Oct 17th, 2015, 21:01   #27
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Ron. You might like to add to your reflective tape job that you also apply some on each side of the 2 separator plates in the lens. Some originals have a "chrome skin" on one side but it's invariably past its best. That's after giving the coloured lens a good scrub and polish.
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Old Oct 17th, 2015, 23:22   #28
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Derek;

I used a new Lens when I reassembled the demo unit for that article, and it had a perfect new coat of silver paint on the area dividers...so I didn't really think of it, but I agree, when reusing an old Lens with less than a good area divider, some metal tape there also would do a nice job keeping light in the area it was generated in, and from splashing over to the adjacent area..I'll have to add that into the article...

Bb; Incandescent Lamps are (essentially) pinpoint, omnichromatic light sources (with light going in every direction), so 1. Reflectors are necessary to redirect the light going in the completely wrong direction and send it out the Lens, and 2. Lenses are necessary to filter out all but the color we want (our Lenses are quite transparent and so do very little directing).

LEDs on the other hand already are monochromatic emitters so we don't need to filter then to get the color we want (we simply install the right color LEDs to begin with), but they have by comparison an extremely limited cone of illumination, so in order to get a similar source illumination, we would need to essentially cover the surface of much of the reflector to do the equivalent lighting and directing of light. This would be tricky and will need some experimentation to get right...it's on my list of ideas and projects...

LEDs certainly have advantages in how fast they light after voltage is applied (instantly in comparison to incandescents), and how little current they take (a third of incandescents), but to change a vintage car over effectively will take some experimentation...I suppose one could simply buy some of those single and double element replacements with the multiple LED arrays and try it...just be sure to do some real-life road tests to assure good visibility from various viewing positions behind...our Taillights are small enough...you wouldn't want there to be less...the point is to improve our visual signature!...oh, and since LEDs don't draw the same amount of high current as incandescents, the Blinker Element needs to be changed from a Thermal Bimetal type to an Electronic one...

Cheers
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Old Oct 19th, 2015, 22:40   #29
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Ron, I actually bought some brake / tail lights from www.superbrightleds.com and they were plug and play. No modifications needed with doing just the brake lights and the light output is very noticibly increased from all angles. I am really happy with the purchase even considering the steep price of the bulbs.

Part # 1157-RHP28-T: Red

-Nick (from Nino's)
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Old Oct 20th, 2015, 19:23   #30
Carlsson 986
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It might be cheating but ducters/laggers foil tape (not duct tape) is a quick and easy solution to dim reflectors. Its mirror finish enhances what light there is!

Peel off the backing and mould into the reflectors in as many bits as you need. Being metal it's waterproof and won't tarnish.

I've used it on both front and rear side/indicator/brake lights with great success.

Ric
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