Engine: D5: Manual Boost Controller

[craigtorridon]

I'm too poor and cheap for a remap and have had success adding a couple of psi using a boost controller on my '98 T4.

Struggling to find much info on how (and if I can ) do this on my '04 D5 163.

Controller is currently installed on the outlet hose of the Turbo Control Valve.
I've opened the valve 5 clicks and when I give her the beans, there's a split second where she starts to fly.... then CHOOSH... wastegate opens and vents all my lovely boost (I hauled the airbox off, so I could hear what was going on).

I presume I've either installed the valve in the wrong place, or there's an electronically controlled safety system that opens the wastegate at a predetermined 17psi?

1//4 Mile day is only a month away and I could use all the budget help I can get.

Has anyone successfully added a boost controller or have any useful advice for me (other than stop clowning about with boost controllers on my Swedish Tractor)?

Please and thank you.

[cheshired5]

The ecu is set to kill boost at 16psi so I don't understand how you think a mbc will change that.
There's no wastegate either.
You could look into corrupting the map signal like cheapskates do on the HP pump with tuning boxes but I don't get the feeling it would go well for you.

I know it's not what you want to hear but if you don't understand the basics of how your turbo is controlled, you're probably best to leave things alone.

[craigtorridon]

Thanks for the reply. First Diesel and clearly still have lots to learn.
I did spend an hour or so Googling, searching forums and annoying people in S60 Facebook groups, in an attempt to educate myself. No joy and I got bored and applied the advice given by a friend years ago:

If you don't know, try it. You always learn something... even if it's never to do that again.
Same guy that thought he could waterproof a toaster. I miss him.

I have been running one of those cheap boxes that fluff the fuel pressure signal since March. Gives a little more oomph but i suspect I might have stop being a cheapskate and look at a proper remap soon.

I'll go unplug that boost controller and try again to find a how to on How a D5 Turbo System works.

If you don't mind me picking your brains, I see in various videos (including your own) people referring to the D5 "Turbo Solenoid", "Wastegate", "Turbo Control Valve" & "Turbo Actuator". These phrases seem to be interchangeable and have confused me more than helped.

When I'm at boost, then lift of and it goes, "FASCHOOSH", that's not the TCV opening an internal wastgate and venting charged air back into the air system?



By complete coincidence I seem to have stumbled across a couple of your how to videos on Youtube earlier. I was particularly interested in the Cleaning Volvo D5/Turbo/Control Valve and plan to give that a whirl.

Apart from not getting 400hp by incorrectly attaching £9.99 items from eBay, what's my best approach to getting the best out the old girl?

Clean the TCV and EGR (nice how to vids, thank you), anything else?

Thanks in advance.

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by craigtorridon

I see in various videos (including your own) people referring to the D5 "Turbo Solenoid", "Wastegate", "Turbo Control Valve" & "Turbo Actuator". These phrases seem to be interchangeable and have confused me more than helped.

The valve (boost solenoid) behind the EGR mixer has different names because it does different things on different cars.
It's effectively a switch for vacuum to move/actuate x, y or z dependant on the application so they're all correct names.
Think of it like someone doing a video showing you how a bedroom light switch works. You don't have the same switch in your bedroom but you do have it in your lounge. Same switch, same functionality, same method for fixing just a different location. Hopefully you get the idea.

You have a vacuum actuated VNT turbo so when the ecu gets the required boost reading from the MAP sensor, it will alter the vacuum to the actuator which will change the VNT profile in the turbo and boost will alter according to what's required on the ECU map.
If you want more boost or boost held longer, you need to change the ECU map or trick the ECU so a quality remap is always preferable.

As for getting more out of what you have, you need to know what you're getting currently with diagnostics.
A D5 running at factory figures is pretty good so you want to be sure yours is doing what it was designed to do first before trying to make it do more.
These are the figures achievable on a correctly maintained Euro 3 or 4 D5 S60/V70. If your figures differ either higher or lower, something may need fixing before progressing further.

[craigtorridon]

Had the car since November, came with fish but was the rep mobile for a Construction Company before that. I dare say she hasn't been a pampered Princess.

Stats on the way home last night are comparable with those that you posted.
Having seen the amount of crap some folk have in the egr mixer pipe, I think I'll pull that off for a peek and take it from there.


https://www.dropbox.com/s/dpx70v7u7j...51-12.png?dl=0

[Clan]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

The valve (boost solenoid) behind the EGR mixer has different names because it does different things on different cars.
It's effectively a switch for vacuum to move/actuate x, y or z dependant on the application so they're all correct names.
Think of it like someone doing a video showing you how a bedroom light switch works. You don't have the same switch in your bedroom but you do have it in your lounge. Same switch, same functionality, same method for fixing just a different location. Hopefully you get the idea.

You have a vacuum actuated VNT turbo so when the ecu gets the required boost reading from the MAP sensor, it will alter the vacuum to the actuator which will change the VNT profile in the turbo and boost will alter according to what's required on the ECU map.
If you want more boost or boost held longer, you need to change the ECU map or trick the ECU so a quality remap is always preferable.

As for getting more out of what you have, you need to know what you're getting currently with diagnostics.
A D5 running at factory figures is pretty good so you want to be sure yours is doing what it was designed to do first before trying to make it do more.
These are the figures achievable on a correctly maintained Euro 3 or 4 D5 S60/V70. If your figures differ either higher or lower, something may need fixing before progressing further.

your highest Vacuum reading is low , should be at least 25 in/hg preferably more !

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by Clan

your highest Vacuum reading is low , should be at least 25 in/hg preferably more !

That's the boost gauge you're looking at Clan with a max of 16psi.

There's no sensor for the vacuum pump but I've checked that separately with a vac tester and it's rock solid around 25 in/hg

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by craigtorridon

Stats on the way home last night are comparable with those that you posted.

Can you define comparable.
What was your peak rail pressure and MAP psi?

[Clan]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

That's the boost gauge you're looking at Clan with a max of 16psi.

There's no sensor for the vacuum pump but I've checked that separately with a vac tester and it's rock solid around 25 in/hg

Hi , no i was looking at the Vacuum gauge bottom right , but i now assume that there is no sensor so where does that reading come from?

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by Clan

Hi , no i was looking at the Vacuum gauge bottom right , but i now assume that there is no sensor so where does that reading come from?

The vacuum gauge bottom right or rather the gauge currently showing vacuum is the boost gauge.
It doesn't have a dedicated sensor so Torque does a blanket calculation of MAP psi minus 14.7psi to give your boost figure.
If atmospheric pressure isn't 14.7, the reading is slightly out and shows vacuum.
You can adjust the boost calculation in settings to compensate for altitude/weather etc but I usually leave it alone. At worst, it's maybe 0.4 psi out so no big deal.

On a NA engine, it's a pretty useless gauge as your MAP is already giving you an accurate vacuum reading.