Amazon: Stubby fuse to bladed fuse

[Ron Kwas]

Joe;

As infrequently as F1 blows (if ever!), "cheaper (and) more readily available" is just not enough of a reason to change to something else imo! The cost of a blade FuseHolder and fuses is likely more than the cost of a couple of spare 7 X 17mm 25A (even at $1 ea.) to keep on-board. You've already shown how to connect it, if you insist on making this mod for that reason alone...

I don't agree so much with Derek's explanation of rivets loosening...and that's part of the explanation of the issue...invisibility! Surface corrosion on the terminals creeps its way between the riveted terminal stack and even though they remain tight...


Picture source: http://www.sw-em.com/gastight.htm

...there is typically no looseness evident the electrical connection between terminals even though adjacent terminals in the stack develop Resistance. The only hints of its presence is by inspection: green oxidation in the visible areas, and by function: slightly and ever increasing glowing Amp Indicator when turning ON Blower (see: http://www.sw-em.com/AMP_Indicator_O...er%20Condition ). Presence of those hints and symptoms would be a valid reason for action at the FB...and note that adding the blade type FH does not address this corrosion or symptoms!

As far as a remedy, only disassembly of the stack gets access to this hidden corrosion, and a thorough removal/cleaning followed by reassembling and soldering the terminals together into a monolithic assembly permanently eliminates this issue.

See also: http://www.sw-em.com/Fuses,%20Alloca...es_and_Options

Cheers

[Derek UK]

Happy New Year Ron. I've noted that the #2 right can become loose and swivel. Yes the tab is loose rather than the rivet perhaps but the looseness does make for a high resistance joint. Doing the solder job on the fuse box does usually reduce that minor glow of the ignition light when the electrics are loaded with lights and fans etc. A very small glow is nothing to worry about, just a quirk of the Bosch circuit. Some don't get it at all.

[Ron Kwas]

Derek;

Rivets don't usually become loose, but they surely can (especially if someone has really wrenched on the terminals while installing or removing), and if you have run across such a situation that would certainly be a way less than optimum connection.

Were in agreement here...but its not necessarily quirky...the slight glow is normal, more visible in dark conditions, and absolutely typical because it doesn't take much in the way of a voltage drop to get the indicator lamp glowing (and some just might be more sensitive than others!)...and even the VDrop across the FuseBlock can often be enough...the ideal condition is to minimize VDrop with minimum R terminal and fuse connections...that way, most of the available voltage is dropped across the load, as it should be!

HNY right back!

[142 Guy]

I don't have a horse in this race because I have a 142 and with the 140 series Volvo finally figured out that putting a minimally water resistant fuse box (you still have the cover - correct?) in the engine compartment was not a good idea. Relocating the fuses to the center console area mostly fixed the environmental contamination issue.

However, I admit to being no fan of the bayonet / festoon / torpedo fuses. I had an electrical issue in my 142 that I had trouble sorting out. The fuse on the problem circuit was not blown and I had voltage on both sides of the fuse's little end caps. After much teeth gnashing I removed the fuse on the problem circuit and discover a nice circular cut in both metal ends of the fuse where the ends fit into the little holes in retaining tabs. I don't know whether this was fretting due to vibration, galvanic action or metal transfer due to the load current (really slow arc welding). On checking the remaining fuses, the fuses that carried little load or were only infrequently used seemed to be less affected so I am of the opinion that the problem was current related.

If you are going to stick with the festoon style fuse panel, hew to Mr. K's general advice about cleaning and the application of zinc bearing grease. Based upon my experience, I would add that you should treat the festoon fuses as a consumable and replace them every 5 to 10 years depending on your conditions.

My 142 now has a sealed under hood fuse and relay box (salvaged from a Lexus 300) with nice ATC fuses for all the mission critical stuff. I still have the festoon fuse panel in the dash; but, with the exception of the signal lights all of the critical functions have been relocated to more reliable electrical supplies.

[Ron Kwas]

142guy;

I suggest the circular holes were cut by the last owner doing the "simply twist the fuse in the holder" trick a few times too often with the ever present (when untreated) corrosion products acting as an effective abrasive and the holes (and non-contact) being the final result...a one-time application of ACZP would have prevented that too! PO Engineering strikes again!

Cheers and HNY!

[142 Guy]

Originally Posted by Ron Kwas

142guy;

I suggest the circular holes were cut by the last owner doing the "simply twist the fuse in the holder" trick a few times too often with the ever present (when untreated) corrosion products acting as an effective abrasive and the holes (and non-contact) being the final result...a one-time application of ACZP would have prevented that too! PO Engineering strikes again!

Cheers and HNY!

Ron

Always a possibility; but, the last owner departed from ownership in 1975 approximately 40 years before I discovered the problem during recommissioning around 2015. So, definitely not a frequent problem; but, annoying and one which the ATC fuse avoids. I have equal disdain for the glass AGC fuse which I used to break when trying to get in or out of tight fuse holders.

Sometimes newer is better.

The porcelain (now plastic) festoon fuses will remain serviceable if you are prepared to do the servicing.

Neil

[Derek UK]

Use proper porcelain fuses if you can. If any of your fuses run hot, 240 fuel pump fuse is a good example, the plastic can get hot enough to soften. This reduce the pressure on the fuse connections to give sparking and even more heat. This will give intermittent relay action and may stop the pump altogether. 240 Fuse#6 I think. Owners can check.
By the way, if tab 2 right is loose, as mentioned above, don't give the rivet a bang with a punch and hammer. 99% chance you will break the plastic base. Solder it.

[Bed2492]

Had this happen on my 240 a few years ago.

[Bed2492]

Had this happen to my 240 a few years ago.

[Bed2492]

Originally Posted by Bed2492

Had this happen to my 240 a few years ago.

Had this happen to my 240 a few years ago.