240 General: Simple rear trailing arm bush tool

[DW42]

I have just done the dreaded rear TAB replacment on my 240. I was hoping to use the original shell with poly bushes, as detailed by Mike Brace on this forum. But the shell on one side of my 240 had a rust hole in it, so I couldn't do this easy option, and had to install Volvo rubber bushes.

Having looked at how to make a homebrew rear TAB tool at:
www-ese.fnal.gov/.../volvo_trailing_arm_bushing_tool.htm
I found it quite difficult to source a pipe coupling in the UK like the one required to make the tool. I also didn't think I could drill through it accurately first go. So I made a similar tool out of washers, a hole saw, and a nut and bolt. This is what I used (washers purchased on Ebay):
A pack of 4 M36 flat washers (£5.95, shipping included).
A pack of 10 M30 flat washers (£5.19, shipping included).
A pack of 10 M24 flat washers (£4.19, shipping included).
A pack of 20 M12 penny/repair washers (£2.80, shipping included).
A 7 inch M12 bolt and nut.
A 64mm hole saw (which came in a set of cheapish hole saws that I have).
A bit of very thick plastic pipe, cut to size and placed at the bottom of the bush ears on the axle (to stop them from bending in).

The photo attached shows how I set the washers up, piling them from largest to smallest at both ends of the tool. I used a big pile of M12 repair washers on each end of the tool. An M36 washer will sit quite nicely on the bush at the pushing in end, and the 64mm hole saw makes a perfectly sized bushing receiver. Putting an M36 washer on the hole saw will stop it from collapsing in when you crank the bushing through. To push the bushing out you need to use the M30 washers at the pushing end -- M30 is the same as the diameter of the bush. I had to push mine back out after I realised that I had it in upside down. I don't think that this tool will be strong enough to remove a rusty old bush -- old bush removal is easy enough using a drill on what's left of the rubber, then collapsing the metal part with a hammer and chisel.

Hopefully the photo is detailed enough to see what I did. The photo certainly makes the underside of my 240 look like a rusted old hulk, but it's actually all pretty solid.

I hope this is a useful alternative TAB replacement option.

David

[chesters6]

i used the same version as the american chaps one bar i used a 12mm bolt ,i ended up with a bent 12mm bolt and the bush firmly still stuck.
worked fine getting it back in though.
the 2" fittings are rare here nowadays.
the bolt was very frail so next time i will find a high tensile one (although the seller said it was) with a finer pitch thread
i think our 2" is not american sized so a kindly gent 2 doors away used his lathe to cut out the threads inside the main body ,this ofcourse stopped the end with the screw doing its job but the other end with its threads removed as well was a perfect fit against the bush's outer ring pushing it back in.
the force i used to try and remove the bush before reverting to the hours of battering actually compressed a 3mm thick washer around the bolts head ,when i get stuck bushes i mean stuck bushes

[Paul240480]

Thanks for this one, should be appearing in 'articles' soon

[2Diesels]

I just coppaslipped mine & knocked them home with a copper hammer when I did them

[Clifford Pope]

I agree it's probably impossible to press out an old bush without possibly damaging the thread on the bar. But then it's much easier just to use a drill and a cold chisel anyway.

I have used a similar home-made device to fit a new bush, using a collection of washers, big sockets and miscellaneous gas pipe fittings. The weak point is always the strength of the bar - ordinary threaded mild steel will strip the thread.
It's worth giving the inside of the axle lugs a whir with a flap wheel first. And of course the spacer to hold the lugs in position is vital.

I didn't know there was a right way up for the bushes - those I have fitted have looked absolutely symetrical, with solid rubber all the way round.

[DW42]

From what was left of the old bushes, it looked like they were solid rubber all the way round. But the new ones from the Volvo dealer only have rubber at the top and bottom, with the word "down" on what they intend as the bottom. I wonder if they will last as long as the originals? -- although they probably don't need to.

[chesters6]

my scantec ones also had a bottom side

[mm50val]

Hi.
Years ago I made my removal tool using large suitable sized BSP pipe fittings and high tensile stud bar and nuts.It is important to clean the rust/scale from old bush surface that sits between the arm and plenty of release fluid/ wd40.A suitable split spacer held in position with cable ties must be positioned between trailing arm webs around old bush to prevent distorting trailing arm webs when jacking old bush out.
The suggestion to use any grease to refit new is bush not recommended as bushes require friction and later corrosion to keep them located in position.The surface area of contact is only the thickness of each web only 10 mm at each end of bush.Hope this is value.