Volvo 850 Ph2 Fuel Filter Replacement.

Paul240480 · Jan 28th, 2012, 13:18

Volvo 850 Ph2 Fuel Filter Replacement.

Today I replaced the fuel filter on my 1996 GLT. Well overdue in my case! My replacement was a 'Mann' filter. It is a good idea to have a new strap as it is very likely your old one will have rusted badly. They tend to give out where the captive nut sits. Remember to dis-connect the battery.

The filter is under the car next to the fuel tank on the offside, so you will need to raise the rear of the car on ramps or stands. I am very very lucky to have a friend with a 4 poster in his hanger:

That'll be him putting my car up.

Here is the old filter, you can see the 'strap' that holds it in place around the middle. Above you can make out the return pipe, this is push fitted into a 'lug' on the strap.

The pipes, fore & aft are push fit type onto the filter. To release a 17mm spanner can be used as a lever. If you hold the filter with one hand you can use the filter to lever the spanner on, pushing the pipes off. You will get an initial spurt of fuel under pressure, so have a few rags handy.

Here pushing the rear pipe off.

Here front pipe removed. Note resting it 'up' on the return pipe to stop any fuel running out.

Finally the filter removed. Note the 'plug' in the pipe to stop your tank draining! The original strap on mine was a 12mm & was very rusted. Lots of WD40 needed to get it going. It did not break mind. The replacement one, which was a Volvo OE had only a 10mm bolt.

The new filter in place, note the arrow on the filter, points forwards as in direction of flow.
The pipes push back on. I used a 19mm spanner to make sure they went 'gently' fully home.

Tighten up the strap.

Now its time to start up, having re-connected the battery. Turn ignition on and let the pump prime. Mine started on the 2nd spin, just time to get the fuel all the way I guess.
Check thoroughly for leaks. Go for a spin & check again.

Hope this helps & do feel free to add any tips or anything I may have missed.
Thanks.

TurboZutek · Jan 28th, 2012, 14:49

You can remove the risk of under pressure petrol spraying out and also make the pipes a little easier to get off, by pressing the schrader valve on the end of the fuel rail in the engine bay while covering it with a rag. A little fuel will come out and the pressure on the system will be relieved. There is also a similar valve just in front of the fuel filter, but I'd leave it well alone as they often are so dirty and road-grime covered that they press open OK but never seal up again!

Another way is to remove the fuel pump relay and run the engine until it stalls out.

Chris...

Rick Barton · Jan 28th, 2012, 15:59

The valve 'in front' of the fuel filter is 'in front' in terms of fuel flow and 'behind' in terms of the fore and aft of the car. It is visible in pictures 2 and 4 and (correctly) appears to have a cap over the valve so should open and close fine. Mine did.

charlotte001 · Jan 28th, 2012, 18:55

Another way of releasing the pressure from the fuel system is too remove the fuel pump fuse run the car till it stops itself as it's used all the fuel in the pipes, press the shrader valve to release any left, undo the fuel cap. Removing the filter that way will prevent your tank from draining which I don't think it can do as the pump will have some kind of one way valve

TurboZutek · Jan 28th, 2012, 20:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by Richard Brown

The valve 'in front' of the fuel filter is 'in front' in terms of fuel flow and 'behind' in terms of the fore and aft of the car. It is visible in pictures 2 and 4 and (correctly) appears to have a cap over the valve so should open and close fine. Mine did.

Yeah mine had a cap on it too which was in good condition, but that didn't stop it leaking quite considerably after using it to release the pressure though. As an experiment I tried the same on a car in the scrappy when hunting for a new hose and that valve actually fell off in my hand!!

I figured it was just an age thing more than anything else, but I'm not tempting fate and ever trying one of those valves again.

Chris...

phatboy130 · Jan 30th, 2012, 14:46

My bracket bolt sheared off when i did mine a couple months back, but the bracket was sound, so I just cut off the captive nut and used a new nut and bolt with loads of copper grease on the threads, job done

dinky1 · Jan 30th, 2012, 17:00

Paul,

I've just been struggling for hours today to do mine on a safrane. I gave up on the fuel lines which look identical to yours (along with the filter) and figured there must be some sort of special tool for the job or something. I never thought about trying a spanner to prize off the fuel lines - I will have another go tomorrow if the temperature is not too bad!

Thank you very much for this really helpful topic!

Andy Northface · Jan 30th, 2012, 17:10

Yes,another good write up by Paul. When I joined VOC,this is exactly the sort of info I was looking for. And a lot easier to understand than a Haynes,IMO.

FWIW, When I did my fuel filter when I first got my car,I also just replaced the filter without relieving the fuel pressure.The only fuel that I lost came out of the filter if I remember correctly,or was I just lucky?

dinky1 · Jan 30th, 2012, 18:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andy Northface

And a lot easier to understand than a Haynes,IMO.

I'm not keen on Haynes either. We had a manual for one of our previous cars and we have one for my OHs car. Nothing is simple with a haynes manual, reassembly is the reverse of removal (yeah right) and to dismantle something you have to refer to 5 other sections in the book and need 25 bookmarks. Hardly practical with oily hands and the car in bits is it! I actually had to ring them up once and ask how to disconnect the speedo cable on one of our cars because the manual just says "unplug" and it actually required a sideways push, a small twist and a yank according to their guy on the phone. It didn't give me a lot of confidence in their books finding out that they miss out little tips like that.

Then you have someone like Paul.. who shows photos of the job, the quick and easy ways to do the difficult bits and makes life so much easier for us. Paul is what a community like the volvo forums is all about

TurboZutek · Jan 30th, 2012, 18:04

The 850 Haynes is particularly annoying as most of the photography and documentation is centred around the 10-Valve they had to make the book. Some of the procedures don't even vaguely translate to the 20v's - I'm thinking anything exhaust manifold related on the earlier cars.

It's a lot less frustrating if you mentally add the phrase 'in theory' in front and behind of every procedure in the Haynes.

Chris...

Jan 28th, 2012, 13:18	#1
Paul240480 Ovlovnut Last Online: Feb 25th, 2024 08:58 Join Date: May 2006 Location: Nivillac View Photos By: Paul240480	Volvo 850 Ph2 Fuel Filter Replacement. Volvo 850 Ph2 Fuel Filter Replacement. Today I replaced the fuel filter on my 1996 GLT. Well overdue in my case! My replacement was a 'Mann' filter. It is a good idea to have a new strap as it is very likely your old one will have rusted badly. They tend to give out where the captive nut sits. Remember to dis-connect the battery. The filter is under the car next to the fuel tank on the offside, so you will need to raise the rear of the car on ramps or stands. I am very very lucky to have a friend with a 4 poster in his hanger: That'll be him putting my car up. Here is the old filter, you can see the 'strap' that holds it in place around the middle. Above you can make out the return pipe, this is push fitted into a 'lug' on the strap. The pipes, fore & aft are push fit type onto the filter. To release a 17mm spanner can be used as a lever. If you hold the filter with one hand you can use the filter to lever the spanner on, pushing the pipes off. You will get an initial spurt of fuel under pressure, so have a few rags handy. Here pushing the rear pipe off. Here front pipe removed. Note resting it 'up' on the return pipe to stop any fuel running out. Finally the filter removed. Note the 'plug' in the pipe to stop your tank draining! The original strap on mine was a 12mm & was very rusted. Lots of WD40 needed to get it going. It did not break mind. The replacement one, which was a Volvo OE had only a 10mm bolt. The new filter in place, note the arrow on the filter, points forwards as in direction of flow. The pipes push back on. I used a 19mm spanner to make sure they went 'gently' fully home. Tighten up the strap. Now its time to start up, having re-connected the battery. Turn ignition on and let the pump prime. Mine started on the 2nd spin, just time to get the fuel all the way I guess. Check thoroughly for leaks. Go for a spin & check again. Hope this helps & do feel free to add any tips or anything I may have missed. Thanks. __________________ 2004 V70 2.4SE Auto 'The Welshmobile’ 2002 Laika Ecovip 400i ( Motorhome on an Iveco 2.8TD) http://www.gitessouthbrittany.com/ http://moncopainmonchien.jimdo.com/

Jan 28th, 2012, 15:59	#3
Rick Barton Master Member Last Online: Oct 8th, 2020 21:28 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Bedfordshire	The valve 'in front' of the fuel filter is 'in front' in terms of fuel flow and 'behind' in terms of the fore and aft of the car. It is visible in pictures 2 and 4 and (correctly) appears to have a cap over the valve so should open and close fine. Mine did. __________________ 2012 XC70 D5 SE Lux Geartronic Polestar

Jan 28th, 2012, 18:55	#4
charlotte001 Premier Member Last Online: Jul 26th, 2012 11:13 Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: norwich	fuel filter Another way of releasing the pressure from the fuel system is too remove the fuel pump fuse run the car till it stops itself as it's used all the fuel in the pipes, press the shrader valve to release any left, undo the fuel cap. Removing the filter that way will prevent your tank from draining which I don't think it can do as the pump will have some kind of one way valve __________________ Previous Volvos:850 GLT 2.5 20V Auto Saloon Silver. 1997 850 T-5 Auto Estate Nautic Blue Chipped ECU, V70 TCV, Carbon Cased Filter, 17inch alloys, Rattling Engine masking the suspension rattles. Engine doesn't rattle anymore

Jan 30th, 2012, 18:04	#10
TurboZutek Premier Member Last Online: Jan 3rd, 2020 00:42 Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: NB, Canada	The 850 Haynes is particularly annoying as most of the photography and documentation is centred around the 10-Valve they had to make the book. Some of the procedures don't even vaguely translate to the 20v's - I'm thinking anything exhaust manifold related on the earlier cars. It's a lot less frustrating if you mentally add the phrase 'in theory' in front and behind of every procedure in the Haynes. Chris... __________________ Sealed For Life Transmission: "The unit is sealed until it dies from dirty, old fluid which should have been replaced." Last edited by TurboZutek; Jan 30th, 2012 at 18:06.

Jan 28th, 2012, 14:49	#2
TurboZutek Premier Member Last Online: Jan 3rd, 2020 00:42 Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: NB, Canada	You can remove the risk of under pressure petrol spraying out and also make the pipes a little easier to get off, by pressing the schrader valve on the end of the fuel rail in the engine bay while covering it with a rag. A little fuel will come out and the pressure on the system will be relieved. There is also a similar valve just in front of the fuel filter, but I'd leave it well alone as they often are so dirty and road-grime covered that they press open OK but never seal up again! Another way is to remove the fuel pump relay and run the engine until it stalls out. Chris...

Jan 30th, 2012, 14:46	#6
phatboy130 1999 V70 XT Auto Last Online: Apr 18th, 2024 21:51 Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Devon	My bracket bolt sheared off when i did mine a couple months back, but the bracket was sound, so I just cut off the captive nut and used a new nut and bolt with loads of copper grease on the threads, job done

Jan 30th, 2012, 17:00	#7
dinky1 Volvo lump in a renault!! Last Online: Jan 11th, 2024 18:06 Join Date: May 2010 Location: England	Paul, I've just been struggling for hours today to do mine on a safrane. I gave up on the fuel lines which look identical to yours (along with the filter) and figured there must be some sort of special tool for the job or something. I never thought about trying a spanner to prize off the fuel lines - I will have another go tomorrow if the temperature is not too bad! Thank you very much for this really helpful topic!

Jan 30th, 2012, 17:10	#8
Andy Northface Where's that 18mm socket? Last Online: Apr 25th, 2016 23:01 Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Normally in the dog house, Chester-Le-Street	Yes,another good write up by Paul. When I joined VOC,this is exactly the sort of info I was looking for. And a lot easier to understand than a Haynes,IMO. FWIW, When I did my fuel filter when I first got my car,I also just replaced the filter without relieving the fuel pressure.The only fuel that I lost came out of the filter if I remember correctly,or was I just lucky?

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