Advice on buying used v70

[Penfool]

Hi all.
I've started looking into getting a used V70. I like the classic model 97-00. Looking a maybe a higher spec automatic that's got relatively low mileage eg 50-75. Being new to volvos was wondering if anyone could point me in the way of what to look for and what to avoid. Also I'm fairly confused by all the spec levels. Does anyone have a brochure or anything?
Thanks Ian.

[RUTV70]

Have a look at the buyer's guide, Ian
...and don't be too restrictive on your mileage...these cars are capable of massive miles if looked after properly....many of the ones you might look at will have most likely done far more mileage than 50-75k...and still going strong with plenty of life left.!!

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=46939


Neil

[toxophilus]

Not a lot major goes wrong with these beasts, provided that they've been well looked after and have a decent service history. I've just got rid of one in favour of a P2 D5 and TBH I'm wishing I hadn't, I think that the P1 was a much better (if thirstier) car.

What I would look out for if anything...suspension drop links and track-rod ends needing replacing (usually manifests as knocking/rattling in the suspension); if you're looking for an automatic, the later 5-speed adaptive box is better than the 4-speed, but in any case make sure that it changes gear smoothly and that the shift between modes isn't clunky. They are aren't totally seamless like a lot of more modern autos, but the changes shouldn't be obtrusive.

Check the ABS reluctor rings aren't cracked - this will show up as an ABS warning on the dash and/or the ABS kicking in at very low speed under normal braking (typically less than 10mph). It's nearly always the passenger side one that goes first. Fairly simple/cheap fix but annoying nontheless.

Timing belts need changing at 80k mile intervals, so check that this has been done and is documented.

Don't expect good fuel economy, especially from petrol models. The normally aspirated 170bhp motor found in the Classics will typically return around 24mpg average, Ts and T5s are significantly worse, TDis will be better giving around 45mpg (the diesels engines are actually an Audi unit, and again are bomb-proof provided that they've been serviced properly).

Other than that, usual rules for buying a used car.

[RUTV70]

Originally Posted by toxophilus

Don't expect good fuel economy, especially from petrol models. The normally aspirated 170bhp motor found in the Classics will typically return around 24mpg average, Ts and T5s are significantly worse,

??...If my N/A V70 (170bhp) only gave me 24 mpg I'd think there was something wrong.!!
I can do quite a bit better than that tbh.....even on average.!
Ye olde computer is showing 32mpg currently...it will get a bit lower during Winter but even taking a couple of mpg off that for error it will still return more than 24.!

Neil

[toxophilus]

Originally Posted by RUTV70

??...If my N/A V70 (170bhp) only gave me 24 mpg I'd think there was something wrong.!!
I can do quite a bit better than that tbh.....even on average.!
Ye olde computer is showing 32mpg currently...it will get a bit lower during Winter but even taking a couple of mpg off that for error it will still return more than 24.!

Neil

Don't you think a lot of it will depend on where you live, how you drive and what you use the car for?

I live in pretty hilly terrain, and the car's main duty was a 7-mile commute morning and evening, mainly through town so all start-stop driving. A long run occasionally at weekends got better economy. I also have a fairly heavy right foot.

I bought the car in 2009 when it was 9 years old with 69K miles on the clock and a full dealer history. The best I ever got out of it was 34mpg on an all-motorway trip from Lancashire to Bristol and back again; the worst was 19mpg which was a full week of commuting into and out of Manchester, in winter, in snow and ice with Winter mode engaged.

Over the three years I owned it I only got just over 24mpg average out of it. I NEVER relied on what the trip computer told me because they are hopelessly optimistic, and the ones in the P2 V70s are even worse - the D5 tells me I'm getting 50mpg average but working it out longhand I'm actually getting about 43 - 45mpg at best.

[RUTV70]

Originally Posted by toxophilus

Don't you think a lot of it will depend on where you live, how you drive and what you use the car for?

I live in pretty hilly terrain, and the car's main duty was a 7-mile commute morning and evening, mainly through town so all start-stop driving. A long run occasionally at weekends got better economy. I also have a fairly heavy right foot.

I bought the car in 2009 when it was 9 years old with 69K miles on the clock and a full dealer history. The best I ever got out of it was 34mpg on an all-motorway trip from Lancashire to Bristol and back again; the worst was 19mpg which was a full week of commuting into and out of Manchester, in winter, in snow and ice with Winter mode engaged.

Over the three years I owned it I only got just over 24mpg average out of it. I NEVER relied on what the trip computer told me because they are hopelessly optimistic, and the ones in the P2 V70s are even worse - the D5 tells me I'm getting 50mpg average but working it out longhand I'm actually getting about 43 - 45mpg at best.

I agree there are many variables that will have their effect...and, like you, I don't buy into the computer readings totally so I do measure by other methods too....and I'm sure that if I really tried I COULD get 24 mpg..LOL.

Neil

[capt jack]

Originally Posted by Penfool

Hi all.
I've started looking into getting a used V70. I like the classic model 97-00. Looking a maybe a higher spec automatic that's got relatively low mileage eg 50-75. Being new to volvos was wondering if anyone could point me in the way of what to look for and what to avoid. Also I'm fairly confused by all the spec levels. Does anyone have a brochure or anything?
Thanks Ian.

If you're thinking of a V70, firstly that is a very good idea! Don't worry so much about mileage. These cars will do 300,000 and more if looked after. I'd be very happy to recommend looking at any V70 up to around 150,000 provided that a good service history is available. A well-maintained high-miler is arguably a safer bet than a low-mileage car with only a patchy history.

Second, the following might help:

Best engine is the 2.4 or 2.5 10v or 20v, the 2.0 litre are often found to be a bit underpowered.

The must-check spots for a V70 of that vintage:

1. Step back and have a good long look at the car in good daylight. Pay attention to panel gaps and shut lines.

2. Get up close and have a good look at the paint finish. It should be superb with no ripples. orange peel or overspray.

3. Lift the bonnet. The engine bay should be clean and leak free. Check the condition of the engine oil (not too black), auto transmission fluid (clear and reddy brown), coolant (no sign of mayonnaise), power steering fluid, brake fluid. Go prepared with some clean paper towels! Examine the engine top mount for signs of the rubber perishing or cracking up. It's a cheap fix but a good bargaining counter. Look for any obvious signs of neglect. See if there's any evidence of a cambelt change. That's an 80K / 8year job, and if it's been done there should be a sticker somewhere. Budget £200 if it's not been done. Leave the bonnet open.

4. Get into the driving seat and switch the ignition on. Make sure that all the dash lights come on. Use the car handbook to identify the lights. The most important is the Lambda light - it's green and orange with a Greek lambda symbol on it. The transmission 'Up' arrow is also important.

5. With the autobox in P or N, start the engine - use no throttle. All the dash lights should go out immediately, with the exception of the handbrake warning light, and possibly the service reminder light. If the car has climate control make sure that none of the LEDS in the push button controls in the heater panel are flashing. If they do this indicats a fault in the ECC system. The engine should settle very quickly to a nice steady idle at 900 rpm.

6. The engine idle (900rpm) should be smooth, quiet and rattle-free. Go round the back of the car and make sure there's no smoke from the exhaust, and that the exhaust isn't blowing.

7. Get back into the drivers seat and make sure that everything works. Check that the A/C blows cold, that the radio works, all the internal and external lights, the blower fan, the electric mirrors, central locking (check the remote), windows etc etc. These things are all very well made and reliable, but repairs can be costly.

8. Switch off and have a good look around the interior of the car. Make sure the seats move, and that the rear seats all drop down flat. Have a really good look at the floor in the front passenger footwell. The heater matrix can leak, and is an expensive fix. If the carpets are wet then you could have a problem.

9. Outside the car inspect the wheels and brake discs. A slight lip on the discs is OK, but more a couple of mm and you'll need to budget for new discs. Check the tyres for wear - it should be even on all four wheels. Well set-up V70s do not feature odd tyre wear patterns!

10. On the test drive, the car should be very smooth and quiet, the gear changes should be seamless. If the car clunks heavily when you engage D or R from rest it's probably best to walk away. Steering wander or vibration is a big turn-off.

11. On the road the car should accelerate powerfully and smoothly. Check that the kick-down works. If you see smoke in the mirror as you accelerate briskly then all is not well. The brakes should be very efficient and pull the car up evenly. The handbrake should hold on 5 or 6 clicks maximum.

12. Listen for squeaks and rattles. If it has a fullish MoT there really shouldn't be any suspension issues at all, so the car should remain quiet at low and high speeds round corners and over poor road surfaces. Clonks and rattles suggest troubles ahead. Some are easy to sort, others less so. Low speed clonking from the front end is probably only the anti-roll bar links and is cheap and easy to fix.

13. V70s do not rust unless they've been bodged, although you may find a bit of surface rust under the battery tray. Check the rear exhaust hanger - these can rot away completely. Mine passed an MoT in that state!

14. Confirm from the service history that you know when the cambelt was last done.

15. ETM. I guess a pre-ETM car would be better, but don't be put off by an ETM car. If it's been sorted that's great, if not use it as a bargaining counter and price accordingly.

All in all the V70 is one of the finest cars ever built. Safe, comfortable, reliable, reasonably economical, well-built and superb to drive. Driven reasonably, you can expect 30mpg or better.

Trim levels are confusing and there were many options. The good things to have are leather seats, alloy wheels and the 'winter pack'. This would give you seat heaters and headlamp wash-wipe. Climate control is found on some cars, AC on all. Sunroofs are not that common.

Do all the usual 2nd-hand car checks of course - shockers, tyre tread, exhaust, and of course all the legal stuff about ownership and outstanding finance and so on.

Keep your wits about you and do your homework. Have a look at a few before making a final choice.

Good luck

Jack

[hadalad]

Originally Posted by capt jack

If you're thinking of a V70, firstly that is a very good idea! Don't worry so much about mileage. These cars will do 300,000 and more if looked after. I'd be very happy to recommend looking at any V70 up to around 150,000 provided that a good service history is available. A well-maintained high-miler is arguably a safer bet than a low-mileage car with only a patchy history.

Second, the following might help:

Best engine is the 2.4 or 2.5 10v or 20v, the 2.0 litre are often found to be a bit underpowered.

The must-check spots for a V70 of that vintage:

1. Step back and have a good long look at the car in good daylight. Pay attention to panel gaps and shut lines.

2. Get up close and have a good look at the paint finish. It should be superb with no ripples. orange peel or overspray.

3. Lift the bonnet. The engine bay should be clean and leak free. Check the condition of the engine oil (not too black), auto transmission fluid (clear and reddy brown), coolant (no sign of mayonnaise), power steering fluid, brake fluid. Go prepared with some clean paper towels! Examine the engine top mount for signs of the rubber perishing or cracking up. It's a cheap fix but a good bargaining counter. Look for any obvious signs of neglect. See if there's any evidence of a cambelt change. That's an 80K / 8year job, and if it's been done there should be a sticker somewhere. Budget £200 if it's not been done. Leave the bonnet open.

4. Get into the driving seat and switch the ignition on. Make sure that all the dash lights come on. Use the car handbook to identify the lights. The most important is the Lambda light - it's green and orange with a Greek lambda symbol on it. The transmission 'Up' arrow is also important.

5. With the autobox in P or N, start the engine - use no throttle. All the dash lights should go out immediately, with the exception of the handbrake warning light, and possibly the service reminder light. If the car has climate control make sure that none of the LEDS in the push button controls in the heater panel are flashing. If they do this indicats a fault in the ECC system. The engine should settle very quickly to a nice steady idle at 900 rpm.

6. The engine idle (900rpm) should be smooth, quiet and rattle-free. Go round the back of the car and make sure there's no smoke from the exhaust, and that the exhaust isn't blowing.

7. Get back into the drivers seat and make sure that everything works. Check that the A/C blows cold, that the radio works, all the internal and external lights, the blower fan, the electric mirrors, central locking (check the remote), windows etc etc. These things are all very well made and reliable, but repairs can be costly.

8. Switch off and have a good look around the interior of the car. Make sure the seats move, and that the rear seats all drop down flat. Have a really good look at the floor in the front passenger footwell. The heater matrix can leak, and is an expensive fix. If the carpets are wet then you could have a problem.

9. Outside the car inspect the wheels and brake discs. A slight lip on the discs is OK, but more a couple of mm and you'll need to budget for new discs. Check the tyres for wear - it should be even on all four wheels. Well set-up V70s do not feature odd tyre wear patterns!

10. On the test drive, the car should be very smooth and quiet, the gear changes should be seamless. If the car clunks heavily when you engage D or R from rest it's probably best to walk away. Steering wander or vibration is a big turn-off.

11. On the road the car should accelerate powerfully and smoothly. Check that the kick-down works. If you see smoke in the mirror as you accelerate briskly then all is not well. The brakes should be very efficient and pull the car up evenly. The handbrake should hold on 5 or 6 clicks maximum.

12. Listen for squeaks and rattles. If it has a fullish MoT there really shouldn't be any suspension issues at all, so the car should remain quiet at low and high speeds round corners and over poor road surfaces. Clonks and rattles suggest troubles ahead. Some are easy to sort, others less so. Low speed clonking from the front end is probably only the anti-roll bar links and is cheap and easy to fix.

13. V70s do not rust unless they've been bodged, although you may find a bit of surface rust under the battery tray. Check the rear exhaust hanger - these can rot away completely. Mine passed an MoT in that state!

14. Confirm from the service history that you know when the cambelt was last done.

15. ETM. I guess a pre-ETM car would be better, but don't be put off by an ETM car. If it's been sorted that's great, if not use it as a bargaining counter and price accordingly.

All in all the V70 is one of the finest cars ever built. Safe, comfortable, reliable, reasonably economical, well-built and superb to drive. Driven reasonably, you can expect 30mpg or better.

Trim levels are confusing and there were many options. The good things to have are leather seats, alloy wheels and the 'winter pack'. This would give you seat heaters and headlamp wash-wipe. Climate control is found on some cars, AC on all. Sunroofs are not that common.

Do all the usual 2nd-hand car checks of course - shockers, tyre tread, exhaust, and of course all the legal stuff about ownership and outstanding finance and so on.

Keep your wits about you and do your homework. Have a look at a few before making a final choice.

Good luck

Jack

Bloody hell wouldn't want to sell a car to you LOL

[JamesV70R]

I do 95% of the above when I view a car ... its to be expected!

[hadalad]

Originally Posted by Villan

I do 95% of the above when I view a car ... its to be expected!

WOW i paid £450 for my 1997 S70 volvo in September mot'd till June 2013 and tax until March 2013 drove it for 5 mins round the block and paid the fella (did try to haggle but he wasn't having any of it)
so i worked on the assumption if it lasted until the tax ran out then weighed it in to the local scrap man 960KG @ £122 per tonne i would walk away a happy fella.
Since September however i have discovered just how good and solid these cars are and begining to think i will have her for many a year.
Guess i got lucky in picking a good one