General: - 2 hours work, 3 fixes - what a difference!

Wirralguy · Jun 18th, 2007, 10:10

Took the plunge and changed my engine mount at the weekend and, like many other people on here, I can't believe the difference it makes to the ride and feel of the car (2003/53 S60 D5, 80,000m)!

I was a bit sceptical when I looked at the old and new mounts side by side as the new one seemed to have even more play than the old one (it kind of floats freely within the casting) but, boy, does it improve the feel when you're driving. And, I agree with others, the gear changes do seem a little smoother - can't for the life of me work out how/why that could be, but I'll take it

.

I actually did 3 jobs that have been on the list for a bit now

1. Change the engine mount
- see above, took about 40mins and was a doddle to do.

2. Tighten the hub bolts (see other posts about clunking!)
- 10 mins work and the noise is gone (will now buy some locktite to make the fix permanent, this was just a test to prove the issue)

3. Add 5mm spacers to the front wheels (18" Nebula)
- the rubbing has completely gone and I can park in the company multi-storey in less than 73 turns

I did these all separately, and road tested after each, to see what difference they made and I have been astounded by the changes these simple fixes have achieved. All for about 2 hours work in my driveway, and trust me, I am not a mechanic! Nothing more was required than a socket set, some spanners and the brilliant instructions/advice found in this forum - Many, many thanks to all the forum members who have posted instructions and how-to's, it really did make the difference between DIY and booking it in at a stealer, so please all take a bow!

piggy · Jun 18th, 2007, 16:16

Nice one. Just think how much that lot would have cost at the main dealers.I bet it's put a smile on your face! Just for the labour, dealer would charge £90 hour.

piggy

DownundeR · Jun 18th, 2007, 23:44

Great news! That’s really encouraging for others out there with similar problems.
It is often surprising how some simple maintenance makes such difference.
Also the 5mm spacers are just right. I know that if you go with wider spacers then the length of the stock wheel bolts become an issue.
Enjoy the ‘new’ car…

Talon · Jun 19th, 2007, 07:50

where did you get the replacement engine mounts from, do you have a part no etc....Sounds like worth while modification to make.....

hinesh12 · Jun 19th, 2007, 12:43

Where you get spacers from and how much? how you fit?

Does it help with nebulas..

thanks

GreKos · Jun 19th, 2007, 18:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by hinesh12

Where you get spacers from and how much? how you fit?

This is something that will help me a lot!! I have tried some aftermarket rims (7' x 17) but the trembling of the car was a nightmare. You see Volvo has - what they described me as - a special design, which prevents most of the aftermarket rims.

Wirralguy · Jun 19th, 2007, 21:39

Hi Guys

Talon:
The engine mount was the top one, often referred to on here as one that splits easily - if you flex the top spar and see a split in the rubber it's time for a new one. Looking at the invoice from the stealer it is p/no:V30776354 - B04 engine anchorage and is the complete unit (casting and rubber)

Hinesh12 and GreKos:
The spacers I got from:

http://www.paramountperformance.co.u...gCategoryID=69

after phoning and having a long friendly chat with the guy. He checked the dimensions etc, knew the PCD of the S60 hub and what I could get away with without buying new bolts or extending past the wing. He suggested the universal spacers as there is a bolt head on the S60 hub that stops some spacers from fitting - the universal ones have a 'spare' hole that it fits into perfectly. I bought the 5mm spacers as I have the 18" Nebula wheels with sports suspension, so my rubbing problem was especially bad, but I would guess that the 3mm would be fine for 17" wheels.

The only problem I had fitting the spacers is how to align them centrally whilst putting the wheel back and fitting the bolts - I cheated and used a drop or two of super-glue to keep them on the hub while I put the wheel back on. Probably not the way a 'real' mechanic would do it but it worked

Dave

Martin Greaves · Jun 20th, 2007, 07:33

One thing to bear in mind is that wheel spacers tend to increase wheel bearing wear, although I guess this might be minimal with only a small offset.

steventoon · Jul 13th, 2007, 13:26

Just ordered a set of spacers from Paramount as my car (a S60 D5) also failed the MOT at a Volvo specialist for the wheels rubbing.

SteveTDCi · Jul 13th, 2007, 20:24

You could use glue or a small amout of copper grease should hold them, it will also stop the two items corroding together.

Jun 18th, 2007, 10:10	#1
Wirralguy Junior Member Last Online: Jun 15th, 2010 13:35 Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Neston	2 hours work, 3 fixes - what a difference! Took the plunge and changed my engine mount at the weekend and, like many other people on here, I can't believe the difference it makes to the ride and feel of the car (2003/53 S60 D5, 80,000m)! I was a bit sceptical when I looked at the old and new mounts side by side as the new one seemed to have even more play than the old one (it kind of floats freely within the casting) but, boy, does it improve the feel when you're driving. And, I agree with others, the gear changes do seem a little smoother - can't for the life of me work out how/why that could be, but I'll take it . I actually did 3 jobs that have been on the list for a bit now 1. Change the engine mount - see above, took about 40mins and was a doddle to do. 2. Tighten the hub bolts (see other posts about clunking!) - 10 mins work and the noise is gone (will now buy some locktite to make the fix permanent, this was just a test to prove the issue) 3. Add 5mm spacers to the front wheels (18" Nebula) - the rubbing has completely gone and I can park in the company multi-storey in less than 73 turns I did these all separately, and road tested after each, to see what difference they made and I have been astounded by the changes these simple fixes have achieved. All for about 2 hours work in my driveway, and trust me, I am not a mechanic! Nothing more was required than a socket set, some spanners and the brilliant instructions/advice found in this forum - Many, many thanks to all the forum members who have posted instructions and how-to's, it really did make the difference between DIY and booking it in at a stealer, so please all take a bow!

Jun 18th, 2007, 16:16	#2
piggy Member Last Online: Jul 16th, 2012 18:17 Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: cambridge2	Nice one. Just think how much that lot would have cost at the main dealers.I bet it's put a smile on your face! Just for the labour, dealer would charge £90 hour. piggy

Jun 18th, 2007, 23:44	#3
DownundeR Junior Member Last Online: Mar 1st, 2016 22:02 Join Date: May 2007 Location: Melbourne View Photos By: DownundeR	Great news! That’s really encouraging for others out there with similar problems. It is often surprising how some simple maintenance makes such difference. Also the 5mm spacers are just right. I know that if you go with wider spacers then the length of the stock wheel bolts become an issue. Enjoy the ‘new’ car…

Jun 19th, 2007, 07:50	#4
Talon Volvic Driver Last Online: Jan 8th, 2014 14:56 Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: colombo	where did you get the replacement engine mounts from, do you have a part no etc....Sounds like worth while modification to make.....

Jun 19th, 2007, 12:43	#5
hinesh12 Junior Member Last Online: Jan 11th, 2012 23:41 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: west mids	Where you get spacers from and how much? how you fit? Does it help with nebulas.. thanks

Jun 19th, 2007, 21:39	#7
Wirralguy Junior Member Last Online: Jun 15th, 2010 13:35 Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Neston	Hi Guys Talon: The engine mount was the top one, often referred to on here as one that splits easily - if you flex the top spar and see a split in the rubber it's time for a new one. Looking at the invoice from the stealer it is p/no:V30776354 - B04 engine anchorage and is the complete unit (casting and rubber) Hinesh12 and GreKos: The spacers I got from: http://www.paramountperformance.co.u...gCategoryID=69 after phoning and having a long friendly chat with the guy. He checked the dimensions etc, knew the PCD of the S60 hub and what I could get away with without buying new bolts or extending past the wing. He suggested the universal spacers as there is a bolt head on the S60 hub that stops some spacers from fitting - the universal ones have a 'spare' hole that it fits into perfectly. I bought the 5mm spacers as I have the 18" Nebula wheels with sports suspension, so my rubbing problem was especially bad, but I would guess that the 3mm would be fine for 17" wheels. The only problem I had fitting the spacers is how to align them centrally whilst putting the wheel back and fitting the bolts - I cheated and used a drop or two of super-glue to keep them on the hub while I put the wheel back on. Probably not the way a 'real' mechanic would do it but it worked Dave

Jun 20th, 2007, 07:33	#8
Martin Greaves New Member Last Online: Apr 24th, 2008 17:09 Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Cambridge	One thing to bear in mind is that wheel spacers tend to increase wheel bearing wear, although I guess this might be minimal with only a small offset.

Jul 13th, 2007, 13:26	#9
steventoon Member Last Online: Dec 15th, 2019 18:28 Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Exeter	Just ordered a set of spacers from Paramount as my car (a S60 D5) also failed the MOT at a Volvo specialist for the wheels rubbing.

Jul 13th, 2007, 20:24	#10
SteveTDCi Member Last Online: Sep 22nd, 2017 09:46 Join Date: May 2007 Location: Peterborough	You could use glue or a small amout of copper grease should hold them, it will also stop the two items corroding together.

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