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GUIDE : Changing the rear gear linkage bushes

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Old Aug 29th, 2007, 09:24   #1
JSeaman
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Default GUIDE : Changing the rear gear linkage bushes

This is a follow-on from changing the front bushes on the gear linkage.

Step 1 - There are another two plastic bushes and two O rings as well as an intermediate bushing. The part numbers are :

Bushing 30871696 (£1.80 each) you need two of these
O-ring 30872293 (0.80 each) you need two of these
Bushing 30871712 (£2.75 each) just one of these

This will set you back £9.34 including VAT

This is substantially more expensive than the front bushing and for me made very little difference so I suggest you check this for excessive wear before

replacing.

Picture 1 shows the two bushes for either end
Picture 2 shows the two O-rings
Picture 3 shows the middle bush
Picture 4 shows the centre bush being squeezed to give you an idea of the material, just soft rubber




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Old Aug 29th, 2007, 09:25   #2
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Step 2 - As before jack the car up nice and high



Step 3 - Support with an axle stand as shown



Step 4 - Look under the car where the gear lever comes down to its linkage and locate the bush we are interested in



Step 5 - This is another twin 11mm affair so using spanners/sockets remove the nut

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Old Aug 29th, 2007, 09:26   #3
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Step 6 - Now remove the bolt from the bushing



Step 7 - You should be able to ease the linkage away from the bush now, a bit of a wiggle from side to side will make this slide down nicely



Step 8 - You now get a good view of the existing end bush and the o ring in place



Step 9 - Push the little metal rod out, it should provide little resistance. You can use the a screwdriver or the bolt you removed to push it all the way out

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Old Aug 29th, 2007, 09:27   #4
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Step 10 - Use a flatblade screwdriver to ease the bushing out. There isn't much force needed and you can do this with your fingernails if you have any



Step 11 - Once again with the flatblade screwdriver, run it around the rubber bushing to make sure it's not stuck to the metal casing



Step 12 - Now work round the outside of the rubber pushing the bush out a little at a time



Step 13 - This is the old bushing all removed. Apart from a little dirt it isn't too bad, the metal rod has got some surface rust but nothing too severe.

Compare it to the shiny new kit in picture 2 and you get an idea of how it has worn.


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Old Aug 29th, 2007, 09:28   #5
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Step 14 - Push the middle rubber bush into the gear stick base, it should slide in easily



Step 15 - When fitted it should be flush on both sides as shown here



Step 16 - Onto your new kit now, place the O rings in the grooves of the outer plastic bushes



Step 17 - Insert the bushes into the base of the lever with our intermediate bush


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Old Aug 29th, 2007, 09:29   #6
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Step 18 - Give a little squeeze to make sure everything's slotted together properly



Step 19 - The metal rod needed a little cleaning up, some fine emery paper or (preferably) wire wool does the trick



Step 20 - Once cleaned up, insert the rod into the shifter



Step 21 - Now refit the rest of the linkage, again wiggle this a little and it should line up nice and easily

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Old Aug 29th, 2007, 09:29   #7
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Step 22 - Insert the bolt back through the newly built bushing



Step 23 - Refit and tighten the nut up



As mentioned at the start of the guide, this made little difference for my car (A slightly more 'notchy' feel to the gears but just as much play in the gearstick itself) but that's not to say it isn't needed on yours. I suggest you inspect the bush before spending your money, I don't expect you'll do any damage by removing the bushings and then putting them back together if you don't find any play. If I could do it again I'd remove the bushes and see if the metal rod wiggles in them (Like it did in the guide for the front bushes)

NOTE : In the first guide I suggested that the ebay kits weren't worthwhile, I'd like to correct that now. My metal rod showed some sign of wear here (although admittedly not much) and so it's better to replace it than reuse. Also, with the price of these bushes being ~£10 it has cost me £15 from Volvo so for another five pounds you could replace both metal rods.
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Old Aug 29th, 2007, 11:42   #8
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Although I own an 855 T5, I've just purchased a Saxo VTR for the lady and found to have the same problem - you could play a tune on the exhaust pipe with the gear linkage when you touch the gearknob.

This gives me an excellent understanding of what the problem is!
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Old Aug 29th, 2007, 11:43   #9
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Glad to be of use
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Old Aug 29th, 2007, 13:36   #10
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great post with the detail posted here even I'm considering having a go
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