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How to change brake pads on new shaper volvo s40 2.0dViews : 22633 Replies : 8Users Viewing This Thread : |
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May 10th, 2009, 19:45 | #1 |
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How to change brake pads on new shaper volvo s40 2.0d
HOW TO CHANGE BRAKE PADS ON NEW SHAPED VOLVO S40 2.0D WITH PICTURE LINKS BELOW:
Hi All First do front wheels: 1. Loosen wheel nuts on tyre and choke back tyres. Make sure car handbrake on. 2. Lift front of car and put on stand 3. Remove two platic dust caps to gain access to hex nuts 4. Loosen hex nuts with ratchet. Remove spring clip at front of caliper with screwdriver. 5. Gently tap in a old sharp screwdriver from caliper end between pad and disc so you can lever back caliper piston. Check rising brake fluid level in reseviour and syphon off some to prevent overspill. I used a crow bar for this - gently does it!! 6. Remove hex nuts and remove caliper. Rest ontop of disc area. 7. Remove pads and check with new ones like for like. 8. Aplly special anti squeal liquid to outside of metal pad surface - not to pad face! Leave for 10 minutes until tacky. 9. Press one pad which has metal springs on one surface into caliper piston hollow. 10. Fit other pad to disc. 11. Fit caliper to disc and screw back on. 12. Fit front spring to caliper with screwdriver and slight tapping of hammer. 13. Pump brake few times to re-adjust caliper piston. 14. Fit tyre and lower car. 15. Same procedure for other front tyre. Secondly do rear wheels: 1. Loosen wheel nuts on tyre and choke back tyres. Make sure car handbrake on. 2. Lift front of car and put on stand 3. Remove two platic dust caps to gain access to hex nuts 4. Loosen hex nuts with ratchet. Remove spring clip at front of caliper with screwdriver. 5. Remove caliper and lift it and refit back with bottom end of it to top hex screw hole - see pictures. Tighten screw not too tight. This will aid in the holding of caliper with piston facing you. 6. Gently lift rubber boot surrounding piston and squirt WD40. Leave for 10 minutes. 7. Next with a good set of crocodile pilers screw back piston whilst supporting back end of caliper with other hand and pushing same time. The first screwing action may be a tough but it will give way!!! If not use more WD40!! 8. Repeatly screw piston until it goes righ back into caliper. You could buy a tool to do this but it will cost you hard earned money and will never be used again!!! Please wear leather goloves and please don't stab your other hand so be careful. 9. Check old with new pads and replace onto disc and unscrew caliper and reposition back onto disc and screw back on. 10. Keep an eye on brake fluid reseviour whilst doing this to stop over flow. Syphon off excess if needed but only little amount. 11. Pump brake few times and replace tyre and lower car back down. 12. Same procedure for other rear tyre. Cheapest pads are Eicher from our friends at Eurocar Parts cosing about 45 quid!! Main dealership will charge lot more!!! Your new pads will need to bed in for at least 200 miles so your brake may feel spongy - WARNING: DRIVE CAREFULLY AND KEEP YOUR DISTANCE AS BRAKE EFFECIENCY WILL BE LOWER!!! The above is what I done on my car and is my experience - please consult Haynes manual and read up before attempting. You don't have to be a genius to do this but you will save some money during the credit crunch time!! Pictures below on the links. Front wheel pictures: http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/DSC00347.jpg http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/DSC00348.jpg http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/DSC00349.jpg http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/DSC00350.jpg http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/DSC00351.jpg http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/DSC00352.jpg http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/DSC00353.jpg http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/DSC00354.jpg http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/DSC00355.jpg http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/DSC00356.jpg http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/DSC00357.jpg http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/DSC00358.jpg http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/DSC00359.jpg http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/DSC00361.jpg Rear wheel pictures: http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/DSC00362.jpg http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/DSC00363.jpg http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/DSC00364.jpg http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/DSC00365.jpg http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/DSC00366.jpg Best Wishes HEAVY747 Last edited by HEAVY747; May 10th, 2009 at 19:53. |
Dec 13th, 2010, 16:53 | #2 |
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Heavy747,
Thanks for your info. I just wanted some help please. I am currentl;y changing the front pads to my Volvo S40 1.6d. I have managed to take off the caliper hex screws, however I cannot seem to fit inthe new pads as the space in what was the old pads is not beig enough. How do I open up the gap to fit |
Dec 13th, 2010, 17:05 | #3 | |
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Quote:
You need push this piston backwards to make room for the new pad. A very easy way of doing this is using a G-clamp and a small block of wood or anything big enough to sit on the circular piston. It's very easy for anyone to do. |
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Dec 17th, 2010, 16:05 | #4 |
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I did my fairly recently. The only other suggestion I have is before retracting callipers loosen the handbrake cable. Once new pads are in pull handbrake lever a few times then re-adjust cable tension.
I didn't know this tip at the time and my car later failed MOT for handbrake efficiency. May save you some problems. I bought the retraction tool which I found really helpful. |
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Feb 24th, 2013, 22:13 | #5 | |
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Quote:
Changed my rear pads this weekend and I'd like to add a special thanks for point 5 above. Not sure if it's HEAVY747's own invention or was found elsewhere (surely Volvo wouldn't have been that helpful ? ) but I found it a big help today. One tiny refinement: putting a block of wood between back of assembly and inner wing means you can push a lot harder. I'm a bit puzzled why this post (and others on same subject) start by saying "Make sure car handbrake on." ? Surely having the handbrake on would make it impossible to take cylinder assembly away from disc ! Finally, readers of these pages will recall my frequent rants about the 'toy' spare wheel Volvo provide. I'm pleased to announce that I have at last found a use for it :- One of reasons for changing pads was to change the brake fluid at same time (or immediately afterwards of course). No finer way of doing that than with a 'Gunson EZ-bleed' kit and the toy spare makes a superb air reservoir to operate that - far better than struggling to lift up a proper wheel !
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Mar 24th, 2016, 10:39 | #6 |
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Point 5 I would have missed if my attention had not been drawn to it.
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Mar 25th, 2016, 18:17 | #7 |
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Attacked the rear brakes today using the info above. Had to rush out and get a different Rewind Tool as the frequently mentioned Laser 1413 does not fit!
The pin spacing on my car (08) is 19/20mm and I purchased from Machine Mart a NEW item they are selling (pro328 pn. 1700734 at £30). The pins on this were slightly too big to fit in the holes of the cylinder face - but a bit of filing of the pins did the trick. This is a left and right hand thread tool and it is important to get it the right way round in use. |
Mar 25th, 2016, 18:37 | #8 |
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I bought one of these kits for about £12 a while back.
I haven't come across a piston it can't push in/rewind. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-...oAAOSwoBtW5lyZ
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Mar 26th, 2016, 19:11 | #9 |
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I've just purchased one of these too.... Just need the good weather now
TT
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