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Stubby fuse to bladed fuse

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    #16
    Originally posted by Ron Kwas View Post
    142guy;

    I suggest the circular holes were cut by the last owner doing the "simply twist the fuse in the holder" trick a few times too often with the ever present (when untreated) corrosion products acting as an effective abrasive and the holes (and non-contact) being the final result...a one-time application of ACZP would have prevented that too! PO Engineering strikes again!

    Cheers and HNY!
    Ron

    Always a possibility; but, the last owner departed from ownership in 1975 approximately 40 years before I discovered the problem during recommissioning around 2015. So, definitely not a frequent problem; but, annoying and one which the ATC fuse avoids. I have equal disdain for the glass AGC fuse which I used to break when trying to get in or out of tight fuse holders.

    Sometimes newer is better.

    The porcelain (now plastic) festoon fuses will remain serviceable if you are prepared to do the servicing.

    Neil

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      #17
      Use proper porcelain fuses if you can. If any of your fuses run hot, 240 fuel pump fuse is a good example, the plastic can get hot enough to soften. This reduce the pressure on the fuse connections to give sparking and even more heat. This will give intermittent relay action and may stop the pump altogether. 240 Fuse#6 I think. Owners can check.
      By the way, if tab 2 right is loose, as mentioned above, don't give the rivet a bang with a punch and hammer. 99% chance you will break the plastic base. Solder it.

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        #18
        Had this happen on my 240 a few years ago.

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          #19
          Had this happen to my 240 a few years ago.

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            #20
            Originally posted by Bed2492 View Post
            Had this happen to my 240 a few years ago.
            Had this happen to my 240 a few years ago.

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              #21
              Hello. So attached is my current setup. Would someone be able to tell me how to wire this blade fuse in place of the short 25amp fuse please. Thanks
              Joe
              Attached Files

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                #22
                Joe; How to connect a blade fuse has been covered before in this thread...!

                ...and I also see a Brown wire on Fuse 2 (unfused right side!)...that does not look to be correct...I recommend investigating!

                Derek; This picture of what can happen to a plasdick body fuse with excessive heat due to poor connections, illustrates your point perfectly:

                Source: https://www.sw-em.com/Smoke_in_the_Cockpit!.htm

                Cheers

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by Ron Kwas View Post
                  Joe; How to connect a blade fuse has been covered before in this thread...!

                  ...and I also see a Brown wire on Fuse 2 (unfused right side!)...that does not look to be correct...I recommend investigating!

                  Derek; This picture of what can happen to a plasdick body fuse with excessive heat due to poor connections, illustrates your point perfectly:

                  Source: https://www.sw-em.com/Smoke_in_the_Cockpit!.htm

                  Cheers
                  Hello. That brown wire ran through the bulkhead up the a post and along the roof but couldn't see where it ended. I've disconnected it anyway and no change so I'm guessing it was for a stereo or heated rear windscreen or something in the past.
                  Who knows.
                  Joe

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                    #24
                    I've obviously checked all the lights etc work as they should

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                      #25
                      To use the 25 amp blade fuse you will need a piggy back connection on one end of the leads. Use this on the right hand side so you can add the wire. Likely you will shorten both leads to make it look tidy so you will need a normal female connection on the other end. Use a ratchet crimper if you can to give a reliable joint.

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