B20 non-E head Wanted

[ninobrn99]

Does anyone have a B20A, B20B, or B20F non-fuel injected head for sale? Ideally, I’d prefer a head with the 44mm inlet valves, but ultimately I just need something to lower my compression ratio. The current setup is too much for my TT3 cam.

Nino

[Nullifie]

Hi Nino,
isn't it possible to easy get a low enough compression ratio with a thicker head gasket? For the B20 head gaskets up to 2mm thick are standard Volvo parts.
Probably information you have allready, but to be sure: If you use a head with 44mm inlet valves you have to use the special head gaskets for such a head (the "piston-holes" of them aren't completely round but a bit angled to have space for the big inlet valves).

[ninobrn99]

thanks for the post. The engine builder ignored the recommended compression ratio for the TT3 cam and it’s too much now. I fear the head may have a crack because I’ve been getting a spray of coolant from the same area that a valve spring broke. It is a F-head currently fitted, but shaved to 48cc chambers. As I understand it, adjusting compression with the gasket is the wrong way to do it because you affect the quench/squish.

I do already have the necessary head gasket though.

Nino

Hi Nino,
isn't it possible to easy get a low enough compression ratio with a thicker head gasket? For the B20 head gaskets up to 2mm thick are standard Volvo parts.
Probably information you have allready, but to be sure: If you use a head with 44mm inlet valves you have to use the special head gaskets for such a head (the "piston-holes" of them aren't completely round but a bit angled to have space for the big inlet valves).

[122phil]

I used a big valve head from a 74 140. it was fuel injected, I just blocked off the fuel injector holes and all was just fine, I polished the ports and had stainless steel seats fitted. I installed the guides and had an engine shop fit the valves and seats. they knurled my new guidss so they hold oil better.

careful about the valve spring length, its critical, if wrong you may get spring binding or valve float, destroying the cam.
i cant recall the valve size but it was larger than with the stock B18.

I bored my B18 to 2L had the parts balanced, I kept the flywheel heavy and was glad I did. it does not reduce power and I can get the slingshot effect if I drive it like a racer in corners, lighterflywheel will maybe accellerate a little faster if you wanto beat people across intersections, I like it heavy,


I ground the rocker shaft down .010 and fitted new bushings, also made bronze thrust washers for beside each pillow block and re surfaced them to allow space, used D- cam, happy with it.

although one can go further, it may make the car less comfortable to really hot rod it, If its a daily driver, I found this to be a decent upgrade just to keep up with modern traffic,
changed jet sizes, to 2 L I went with the 2 pipe exhaust manifold and intake from a 67

Im still running the peashooter exhaust.

used the distributor from the 74 140 automatic, and its spark box, it had a vacuum retard, I flipped it so it works as a vacuum advance. It was just done by guesswork but actually seemed to work nicely, haven't touched the ditributor for 20 years now. no more pitted points. fittred overdrive , lowered the rear axle crown and pinion gears, changed all the bearings in the rear axle.

I blew the cam up the first time, pulled out a pushrod and a spark plug and drove it home about 200 K on three cylinders, that was fun, it made pretty funny noises with a plug removed, but ran decently, saved a tow, shims under the springs fixd the valve float issue.

if you hear them start floating, pay close attention,