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A sticky? What are the common rust-traps on a P80
In another thread sdg1970 of this forum made the very valid point - these cars are getting to a stage where rust is getting to some. I confess five years back, I'd be the first to brag, these things don't rust, and they don't.... but mine's at the entry point of proving me wrong. I've seen a few kept in and around the South coast 'darn sarf' and 'Oop narth' , Hull etc that are nothing but scrap. The salt air finishes 'em.
It'd be good if this thread could become a quick sign-post thread that becomes a sticky, wihich in turn feeds-off the killers and common-faults thread here: https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=263883 Keep 'em short and sweet, best with pix if you've got them, and your favourite product/ cure if you've got one: I'll kick-off: 1) The area in and around the rear exhaust hanger bracket. I caught mine in time. 2) Door stays Usually driver's door goes first. Don't let it 'ping' becuase it'll stress the pillar and welding comes next. Which ruins the galv, and down we go. So come on boys, I live inland... a good many of you know a lot more about this than me... |
Plenty have had problems under the plastic arch liners and sill covers. I'm at the stage where, I spray WD40 in between the liners once a month (you can just squeeze the little red plastic straw thingy WD40 cans have in there) and more frequently in salty, wintry conditions.
I also caught my rear exhaust hanger area in time, but imo it needs regular attention. The fuel tank filler pipe bracket where it joins the tank is another piece that by now is likely to be rancid. I've coated mine in Jenolite and Waxoyl and didn't meddle with it. This Winter am Waxoyling the rear end on mine again and will likely do so at the end of each Summer going forward. The importance of regular pressure washing under arches, around sills and back end cannot be over-stressed. Even if it means blowing off any loose Waxoyl - that was likely hiding something nasty anyway. Just my sixpence... |
Sill Cover Underside Check:~
Sill Covers:~ https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=302938
Bob. |
2) Door stays
Reading it back, perhaps I failed to make myself clear. I wrote about htsi before, again... The door stays don't corrode, they wear and make the doors 'pop' under the strain. This eventually cracks the 'A' pillar, which can't be sorted without welding. This wrecks the ductility of the sheet steel and the galv. It starts to rot. The weld cracks again, which has to be welded a second time. The end result is a pig's ear. Catch it early and the fix is eBay's finest door-stay for £12 - five minutes with two nuts and a 10mm spanner. |
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Credit to Amazondean for this one:
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...t%2C+corrosion Sorry can't credit these pix, can't remember where they came from, you know who you are. |
HIDDEN DANGER: Rear Bumper brackets 6816114
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HIDDEN DANGER: DO THIS CHECK NOW! Rear Bumper brackets 6816114
I could swear I've posted this before... rear bumper brackets. At the age these cars are at, I've not seen a car without these at dangerous levels of corrosion. I will almost guarantee your rear bumper is set to fall off. Part 6816114 is a thin bracket exposed to rot. A swift kick and my bumper fell away. Mine should not have passed its MOT. It did because the problem hides well. Second post down, here's an example of what you'll find... https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=318127 The genuine Volvo parts are cheap. On the bay of E, under £40 for two. get 'em whilst they're hot. |
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Kick your bumper, and watch as most are reduced to dust on your drive...
[not mine, I credit tactcom7's and others for these pix] |
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More pix...
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Corrosion: Which towns not to buy a car from?
Where not to buy a car?
Different parts of hte country have very different corrosion rates. This is why some of you have mint rot-free cars, whereas others with cars of the same age are near finished. UK Corrosion map: https://www.galvanizing.org.uk/corrosion-map/ |
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^^^ Rustproofing ^^^
Quote:
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Quote:
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1614005264 https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...2&d=1614005264 https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...3&d=1614005264 https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...4&d=1614005264 |
I must have been lucky with some of that rust traps. Both my delta brackets were shot and the n/s/r bumper bracket rusted away. But under the rear arches were ok for me, phew
The thing that made my heart sink was all the studs that hold up the exhaust heat shield and the some of the plastic fuel lines. Its the same studs that are used to hold on the plastic wheel arch protectors too. I was lucky in the wheel arches but some of the studs are half the size they once were. My advice would be to remove the plastic nuts on them and give the stud a good blob of grease while you still can :teeth_smile: https://i.postimg.cc/prjKRP9h/centre...floor_rot1.jpg The only thing I could find that fit the bill to replace the stud things was to modify some roofing bolts and weld them into the patches https://i.postimg.cc/k4RzWt62/heat_shield_patches4.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/7PSCHss2/heat_s...es_fitted1.jpg |
Brickman wrote:
These cars can also develop rot on the rear frame rails where the boot floor is attached, not at all hard to fix, very easy to cut out and weld in new material though never seen one actuality go through, normally just a clean and underseal before its 20th birthday will suffice. |
I found a little under the battery tray on mine, nothing major, just sanded it off and put several coats of red oxide paint.
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Wheel-arch rust?
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I've seen enough to think they don't rust in the wheel-arch, not a brack on any of mine, not even close, yet flicking thru' eBay I see this. It's a piccy of a Darwen based car. The UK corrosion map has it as a more corrosion prone area compared to most. Maybe this here is proof-positive, there's something in one area over another?
https://www.galvanizing.org.uk/corrosion-map/ |
The front wings perforated on mine where the wings meet the front bumper. The paint was externally perfect, these had rusted from behind and the rot had run rampant out of sight so by the time it bubbled on the surface I could see they were already mullered.
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DANGER- Your Sunroof
I understand near all Yank-side cars have sunroofs, more of an option our side of the pond. It's not unheard of for sunroofs to simply lift-off and clomp following traffic. A sheet-metal stamped-frame is bonded to the glass. Water sits in the seal and rots the stamping. Eventually there's nothing to hold the glass to the stamped-frame, and wompf, the wind lifts it off. The vehicle behind sees your sun-roof assembly. Not good. Check yours. It isn't because testers don't know about it. Should be an MOT fail. Pound to a penny, yours won't be good. Mine was found in a very bad way. A firm push would have seen it go to lift-off. https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/sunroof-seal-repair/ |
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Electric Driver's Seat Controls
All thanks to bob12: https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=332555 |
Around the inside of the rear wheel housing and rear seat (estate) back anchor, under the plastic wheel arch cover. They all go there eventually - have a look at yours!!
I’m cutting out rust there at the moment. Does anyone know anywhere I can get salvage cut-off body sections? |
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