Rusty brake-line (hard line)
 

Morning gang,
Well all this time I've been thinking that my hard brake lines are in great shape. I've assumed this to be the case because the lines under the car look fantastic. However, yesterday I popped off the access panel where the fuel filter is located (so that I could replace my handbrake cable) and I found some pretty advanced rust on the outer-most rear brake line. I was not able to scrape any of it off for further inspection but it doesn't look great. Below are two pics that give you a good appreciation for what I was seeing.

Question #1: What's the "common" practice around replacing these? Replace the whole thing, cut a new piece in? Do I really need to go with a ?double-flare? connection or can I slam a compression piece in at both ends of the piece I'm cutting out? I of course want to do things safely but not "dealership safe," if you know what I mean.

Question #2: What are the two other lines next to the two brake lines? They are slightly thicker and have some corrosion on them but not a ton.

Cheers

http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9zjyba4m.jpg

http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/...psrefmik6y.jpg

I would splice a new length in. I have successfully done it by using a male and female union with one double flair and one single. I have also used a connecting piece with 2 female threads and 2 male connectors with double flares on the pipe.

This was the reason I baught a draper hand flareing tool so that I could flare pipes in situe on the cars.

Paul.

Umm! Looks like a spot or two of Iron Oxide alright!

If you are a long term player, use Copper pipes and replace the lot without joins, but if that is too much work or expense, then do a cut and splice job using steel lines:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fL7BQKPhV2k

The two larger diameter pipes are fuel lines. You have found the hidden spot where the rear brake pipes always corrode.

I replaced mine last year with Kunifer pipes from the front bulkhead all the way to the rear - single lengths. I dropped the tank and found corrosion on the underside of the rear seat pan - above the tank - so treated that as well. Attachment shows new pipes fitted before replacing fuel tank.

Wow, really clean job, nicely done! Was it hard to pass the pipes through with all the other stuff in situ? Did you bend as required while you placed it? And finally...did you have access to a lift or did you do it in the drive? Also, was the corrosion above the tank worse than at the fuel pump location?

When you say "from the front bulkhead" did you splice in at that point or do you mean that you replaced the whole line?

Once the fuel tank is removed, it is quite easy to get to the brake pipes. It just needed a couple of hand brake brackets undoing to get enough room to remove the pipes in one length. The corrosion above the tank were a couple of spots where it had just started.
On the bulk head - nearside - is a union where the pipes come down from the master cylinder and then the rear pipes join. I undid the rear pipes at that union and replaced them in one length. To be honest the pipes had not corroded where they run along underneath the body, so the pipes could have been cut off by the tank and just the rear sections replaced. however, with the tank removed they might just as well be replaced from the front.
I used the old pipes as a pattern and formed the new ones to fit and then tweeked them once on the car. piccie attached. Yes, I do have a four post lift so working under the car is easy.

Thank you. That is very helpful. Is removing the fuel tank very difficult?

Removing the tank is straightforward and not too difficult.

First thing to do is make sure the two securing straps can be undone. May need some releasing fluid on the bolts. Once you know the straps can be removed, remove the access panel under the back seat and disconnect the fuel lines and electric plug to the fuel pump. Then underneath the car disconnect the two fuel filler pipes where they go into the tank. The Jubilee clips will be rusted and may need hacksawing off. Although I had made sure the tank was nearly empty I syphoned the remaining petrol out via the filler tube. I thought I could suck on the tube and stop before I got a mouthful of petrol -how wrong I was - a mouthful of finest unleaded is not a pleasant experience.

Once the pipes to the fuel pump and filler tube are disconnected the tank straps can be undone and the tank lowered. The tank is plastic so not very heavy. I did remove the fuel filter first, but this is not really necessary as it can be done once the tank is lowered. All the fuel lines are quick release couplings so should disconnect easily. I'm sure you do not need me to say mark the pipes before disconnecting :)

Although it is a bit of a pain removing the tank, it does enable the replacement of the brake pipes so much easier and also a good opportunity to have a good clean up around the floor pan. Volvo did not use any underseal around that area so it is vulnerable to corrosion.
Attachment shows the corrosion on the chassis member and brake pipe that goes behind the tank to the driver's side.

Thanks, ITS. Looks like that will be a job for me before the year is out. I see that you also get great access to the exhaust flange while the tank is off...I'll need to inspect my repair job while I'm in there!

It may look daunting to start with, but once the tank is out, there is a massive void and makes easy access to the underside of the car. Well worth doing in my opinion. Good luck:thumbs_up: