In using my post to make the same points, I agree. In short, these cars are well suited to LPG.
This goes for pretty much anything, however it's more prevalent with LPG. If under a railway-arch, you'd have it lashed-in over a weekend, best avoid.

Nivomats
And another... I thought I'd covered these. Nivomat shocks are brilliant things, I've seen 300K out of a set, 250K ought to be expected.


Found on the go-faster variants, 'Estate pack' and Bifuels too.

The weak point on such a premier-grade item is the gaiters. Once they fail, the writing's on the wall. They start to leak and don't self-level or start to drop in minutes.

Change your gaiters now, the alternative is a new set of Nivomat at £8-900 or complete removal. This means a spring-change and mounts with it. A £200-250 job. Gaiters at £30 odd starts to look cheap. Piccy shows AWD variant, but you get the idea.

Nivomats (cont'd
The central point here, at 20 years old, your gaiters will be breaking-up or perished. Dirt soon takes out the seals. I used motorcycle fork gaiters. This video demonstrates how to get them off, but neglects to replace. Your mileaage may vary.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ORadaSdZZKY

Nivomats (cont'd)
Don't allow those Nivomats gaiters to look like this for too long... those gaiters are one of the secrets to why Nivomats last so long. Lesser shox won't have them.

Air-con failures

In my experience over three cars, the common fault is rarely the compressor per se, but its centifugal-clutch. It fails to kick-in. The real fix is a new unit, but....

Before changing, check this. Fixed with a 3 x cable-ties, to take up the wear, you're unlikely to need a compressor, gassing etc etc. It's fiddly but can be done. The cable-ties move the clutch-outer just enough forhte clutch to 'catch'. I have my 13YO boy mine... on all three cars. He's practiced at this by now and his hands are smaller.

There's Youtube vids by your mate and mine RobertDIY.

Corrosion / tin-worm.
There's a serious flaw in this thread. It's light for info on rot and it took the 47th post (Thank you Amazondean) and sdg1970 of this parish to push this thru'. Partly brought about because these cars don't rot, only they're getting to the age where even this adage gets proven wrong. More so if you live near the coast in salt-laden air.
Penny to a pound, you've 20+ years of crud hidden behind plastic. Get the pressure washer out, there's a few mud-traps. Those sills might be body-colour and look like metal, but they're actually plastic. As a rule, much as post 47, where there's plastic trim, sills, wheel-arches etc, the mud collects. This keeps things wet, and here's your rot:

Links:
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=317208
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=302938

Lifted from a thread on this...
Playing the exhaust game.
The stock system seems to last forever. Stock is quieter too. The factory item on mine is twin-box. Silencer + resonator. The after-market systems I've seen are made of brandy-snaps - Xmas 1987. The 'Walker' brand I had was single-box, noisier, and didn't last two years. This seems par for the course.

Might be the way I use them, but none of my factory systems have ever failed, 'on their own'. Unfair to their quality, mine always meet their end when reversed into low steps/kerbs etc.

If you can, do as I did, I got lucky and found a decent 'used' stock item in a breaker's yard.

My tip:
Water kills them. At the low points, drill 2-3 tiny drain holes, more so if yours doesn't see a chance to be properly hot. Else, and it's not even the money, changing them is a pain.

A poor fit
Many don't fit well, but when new can be shoehorned in. Fine when new, they'll tolerate the stress. As they age, the vibration and stress sees them fail far quicker, and at the box-pipe-joint. Just where a repair can't be. Check the fit for 'float' now.

Don't dismiss your local hand-build zhorst centre.
They won't be much dearer than a top-end system, but.... using heavy-gauge S/S to save on labour, [easier/quicker to fabricate/weld, see] that stuff will outlast you. If like me, you own a 'keeper' or a classic you use lots, this is the way to go.
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Go Jetex. Extra join to go over the rear axle without needing to lift the car on a ramp.
They last too.
A little more resonance when accelerating, but £350 ish against 500 + for an OE one?

Still on my original 25 year old exhaust, gave the exterior a coat of paint last year to help preserve it a bit lomger. Pipes are mild steel, rear box is stainless steel

If the car isn't being used for short journeys the exhaust should get hot enough to dry out any moisture which will help with the longevity

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1628328615

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1628328628

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1628328628

Rather than become, for example a zhorst thread, the purpose of this thread is to sign-post info.

The C70 ragtop
It occurs to me this resource lacks specific info on the C70. For the C70, fitment of strut-braces/ tow-bars etc, this thread appears to be shaping up:

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=319418

Else can someone add short sign-posts and /or tips /killers for C70 specific info? Come on, ITSv40 you for one don't write wafflin' tripe...