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-   -   Volvo 850 Ph2 Fuel Filter Replacement. (https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=144285)

Paul240480 Jan 28th, 2012 13:18

Volvo 850 Ph2 Fuel Filter Replacement.
 
Volvo 850 Ph2 Fuel Filter Replacement.


Today I replaced the fuel filter on my 1996 GLT. Well overdue in my case! My replacement was a 'Mann' filter. It is a good idea to have a new strap as it is very likely your old one will have rusted badly. They tend to give out where the captive nut sits. Remember to dis-connect the battery.

The filter is under the car next to the fuel tank on the offside, so you will need to raise the rear of the car on ramps or stands. I am very very lucky to have a friend with a 4 poster in his hanger:

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k.../Photo0144.jpg
That'll be him putting my car up.

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k.../Photo0138.jpg
Here is the old filter, you can see the 'strap' that holds it in place around the middle. Above you can make out the return pipe, this is push fitted into a 'lug' on the strap.

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k.../Photo0139.jpg
The pipes, fore & aft are push fit type onto the filter. To release a 17mm spanner can be used as a lever. If you hold the filter with one hand you can use the filter to lever the spanner on, pushing the pipes off. You will get an initial spurt of fuel under pressure, so have a few rags handy.

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k.../Photo0141.jpg
Here pushing the rear pipe off.

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k.../Photo0140.jpg
Here front pipe removed. Note resting it 'up' on the return pipe to stop any fuel running out.

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k.../Photo0142.jpg
Finally the filter removed. Note the 'plug' in the pipe to stop your tank draining! The original strap on mine was a 12mm & was very rusted. Lots of WD40 needed to get it going. It did not break mind. The replacement one, which was a Volvo OE had only a 10mm bolt.

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k.../Photo0143.jpg
The new filter in place, note the arrow on the filter, points forwards as in direction of flow.
The pipes push back on. I used a 19mm spanner to make sure they went 'gently' fully home.

Tighten up the strap.

Now its time to start up, having re-connected the battery. Turn ignition on and let the pump prime. Mine started on the 2nd spin, just time to get the fuel all the way I guess.
Check thoroughly for leaks. Go for a spin & check again.

Hope this helps & do feel free to add any tips or anything I may have missed.
Thanks.


Link to original thread

TurboZutek Jan 28th, 2012 14:49

You can remove the risk of under pressure petrol spraying out and also make the pipes a little easier to get off, by pressing the schrader valve on the end of the fuel rail in the engine bay while covering it with a rag. A little fuel will come out and the pressure on the system will be relieved. There is also a similar valve just in front of the fuel filter, but I'd leave it well alone as they often are so dirty and road-grime covered that they press open OK but never seal up again!

Another way is to remove the fuel pump relay and run the engine until it stalls out.

Chris...

Rick Barton Jan 28th, 2012 15:59

The valve 'in front' of the fuel filter is 'in front' in terms of fuel flow and 'behind' in terms of the fore and aft of the car. It is visible in pictures 2 and 4 and (correctly) appears to have a cap over the valve so should open and close fine. Mine did.

charlotte001 Jan 28th, 2012 18:55

fuel filter
 
Another way of releasing the pressure from the fuel system is too remove the fuel pump fuse run the car till it stops itself as it's used all the fuel in the pipes, press the shrader valve to release any left, undo the fuel cap. Removing the filter that way will prevent your tank from draining which I don't think it can do as the pump will have some kind of one way valve


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