Common S60 Problems - Solutions Only
 

Here's a few common problems that come up on the forum, with solutions where possible. Feel free to add your own or correct me, too! Some may apply to the V70 as well...

Note: please don't use this thread to ask about problems - only use it to post solutions you've found.

Door lock popping up - usually on early cars (up to 02?) Currently requires replacement lock although Volvo may pay 50% up to 4 years old.

Power steering fluid loss - either failure of the hose or seam going on the tank. Known problem by Volvo

Air con cutting in after about an hour when parked - normal, it's the system drying itself out.

"Clunk" when moving off - on cars up to MY04 - it's the ABS system test. Doesn't happen on MY05 and later

Turning Circle very poor - it's an S60. Live with it!

to be continued....

Haynes Manual for S60 - there isn't one. There is one for the "Mk 2" V70, so that may help if the problem is at the front of the car....


****update....The S60 Haynes Manual is now available to order - Book No. 4793.****

Thanks to "oilburner" for this one:

"One shot" function causing window to get part way up and then "bounce" down:

Try performing a reset of the UEM (Upper Electronic Module), this controls the door locks and window operation:

- Close all of the doors and bonnet.
- Key in position II engine not running.
- Hold both the driver window and passenger window switches in the driver door panel in the closed or up position for 5 to 8 seconds after the windows are closed.
- Release buttons.
- Remove the ignition key.
- Operated the remote twice. lock/unlock lock/unlock.

This will reset the UEM brain. This can correct faulty operation of the sunroof and/or erratic door lock function.

Worked for mine. I had the same problem after the electric mirror switch was replaced.

EDIT: This may or may not wipe out the settings for the auto-lock, I do not know for certain as mine doesn't do it!

You could also try locking and unlocking the car via the drivers door lock, this might do the same thing - but may also loose your settings, unless the auto-lock is controlled via another of the car's computers - it could be, I don't know for sure.

Lights not flashing when locking car with remote - check all doors, bonnet & boot are fully shut; often opening boot/bonnet & slamming shut fixes this!

Applies to R model only but sometimes standard S60s

Axle ping /clunk

Volvo tech bulletin issued as discussed in:


http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothr...=101873&page=1

http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=60005

http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=21132

The engine starter is totally dead when the ignition key is turned on.

Solution;
Either have someone hold the key operated whilst you tap the starter motor body with a relatively heavy bar (or similar)
Or
Tap the starter motor body with a relatively heavy bar and then retry starting the car.

Obviously replacing the starter motor would be the best solution but as this problems tends to happen randomly and only on rare occasions, the above solutions have kept me going for over 5 years at no expense.

It is not the starter body which requires to be tapped whilst the key is turned to start position but the PRE-ENGAGED SOLENOID ATTACHED TO THE STARTER BODY. Problem is usually caused by the "solenoid" sticking. Tapping whilst energised often frees it. Was first shown this many years ago by AA patrolman when stuck with caravan and auto gearbox car Phew !!

Seconded. I've had this happen twice - once when the car was fairly new and then again a year or so ago. Other symptoms are often that the car will start if left alone for a while (presumably cooling down frees the solenoid). Solution is take the wire off and clean it down properly.

Tony

[QUOTE=Graeme Catnach;265959]Here's a few common problems that come up on the forum, with solutions where possible. Feel free to add your own or correct me, too! Some may apply to the V70 as well...

Power steering fluid loss - either failure of the hose or seam going on the tank. Known problem by Volvo

Thanks for the info Graeme.
I recently had a leak from the power steering reservoir / drain pipe of my S60 D5. (I got through about a litre of fluid in a month). After removing and cleaning the reservoir and pipe, I couldn't see any damage anywhere so just refitted, but tightened the hose-clip that bit extra. It's been fine for a week now. So I think it's worth checking before buying the parts.

Cheers
Paul

Handbrake shoe linings separating.
They have just gone on my four and a half year old S60 D5. For some time now I have noticed a delayed release from the handbrake.
Last weekend I went to take the car out the garage to wash it, it had been sitting in the garage for a week in gear, handbrake off. The car would not move off as normal, right rear wheel locked solid. Eventually released after dragging for six feet out of the garage.
Contacted Volvo and told not to drive at speed as the now loose lining(s) could catch in the stub axle causing over one thousand pounds damage.
Car booked into local dealer for new set of rear discs, pads and shoes. Cost quoted at just under £400 before VOC discount.

Covered in this thread among others: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=64804

Handbrake issue
 

Just to add, Mo created this thread with a write up and pics of what is required to replace the rear brakes.

Engine Noise Inside The Cabin
 

My S60 was really noisy inside the car,, could hear lots of noise from the turbo etc.

I read on the forums somewhere that the 'boot' that covers the steering colum can come adrift.

I took a look and the boot was still in place but the bearing that sealed it to the steering colum had come out of position.

I will be honest I really didnt think that this coming out of position would of made any difference, but now ive put it back to where it should be the difference is unbelievable,, no noise inside the car anyomre, its brilliant.

So if you think the turbo is hissing or got louder recently etc take alook at this bearing first.

I had this happen and it was the 12v wire to the solenoid needed a clean (the thin wire), once cleaned it fired the starter up no problems

Very frequently asked question at the moment : Fuel cap cover doesn't lock with the rest of the car.

It is supposed to be like this, wait 10-15 minutes and if it STILL hasn't locked then you have a problem. The idea is you can secure your car on the petrol station forecourt and still have time to fill the tank before the flap locks.

D5 lumps

Car takes ages to start in the cold weather or fails to start altogether??

One or more of your injectors are leaking.

Unclip the soft/rubber return pipes from on top of each of the injectors and pipe them off into 5 seperate containers. Halfords do a kit for this.

If one of the containers starts to fill up rapidly (much more than the others) then that injector is shot!

If the car won't start in very cold weather then a quick way to get it started is to take off the engine cover and poor boiling hot water directly on to the injectors to warm them up. The car should then start.

Worked for me for two weeks until I had the number 2 injector replaced.

The "boot" is at the bottom of the steering column and is relatively easy to get to. Push the driver's seat all the way back and raise the steering wheel to its topmost position. You should then be able to get to the boot in question. I have had to do this several times in the last few months and it never seems to last more than about 2 or 3 weeks.
Does anyone know how to permanently fix this or at least fix it so that it only needs to be done 2 or 3 times a year instead?

The boot in question is on the floor behind the pedals at the end of the steering column. It is a black rubber boot that covers a bearing. Sometimes this moves down over the bearing and starts to make a groaning, rubbing sound when you are turning the steering wheel.

I also have similar problem. typically after driving for a while - like 3 hours journey and I park the car - buying fule for instance - The engine would not start, and interior lights dull. Removing the battery negative terminal and putting it back gets things started again, even though the terminal looks very good, not 'rusted' or dirty. happened more than four times now over last two months and only when on long trips. Unfortunately the last oine I did now brings up SRS airbag fault message. Obviously did not put the ignition key in position II before connecting back the negative terminal.

Split intercooler
 

Loss of power
Smoke on acceleration
Hissing noise from engine on acceleration
Oil on/under the radiator

All add up to a SPILT INTERCOOLER

Solution = replace!

Lots of posts on here with how to replace it.

Noticed a few threads popping up on this recently.

My 2004 V70 suffered this same symptom. Someone kindly pointed out the two rubber bump stops under the leading edge of the bonnet. They are screwed into place and sometimes can become unscrewed enough just to hold the bonnet off. Screw them fully in and voila, all works well.

Thought I'd pass on and make it "sticky".

D5 enters limp-home in freezing weather
 

You've got water in your fuel filter that's frozen.
Replace it and all will be fine - including the engine management light that comes on with warning messages to get the engine management system serviced!

Loose steering wheel
 

Got a slight looseness/wobble on the steering wheel?
Disconnect the battery (you're going to be playing around with the driver's airbag) and wait 10 minutes. Turn the steering wheel 90 degrees from straight-ahead, insert a smallish screwdriver well into the hole in the rear of the steering wheel & "lift the handle" - this will disengage a clip - you'll see the airbag loosen slightly on that side if you've been successful. Turn the wheel the other way and repeat on the other side. The airbag module will now lift off - no need to disconnect it - simply take an 18mm (yes - 18mm!) socket on an extension & tighten the centre bolt. In theory you're supposed to replace these bolts if you loosen them - up to you. Replace the airbag module, give it a firm push to reclip it, reconnect the battery and you're fixed.

Ian

Go to dealer and get them to remove the delay. MRG did mine :).
It can be set to zero.

Just been trying to sort this problem out on my S60. I can only get the rubber boot only halfway over the nylon and rubber bearing that surrounds the steering column. Should it cover it all or will halfway up suffice?

Half way up will suffice for a while but it will slip back down again.
A trick I used to get it the whole way over the bearing was to spray a little silicone oil on the tip of my finger and rub it on the inside of the lip on the rubber boot. This will stop the rubber from gripping the bearing as you move it over and you will feel it "pop" into place at the top. Remember too that sometimes the bearing itself will move up and down so this is a 2 handed job.
Mine has not budged since I did this. You should be able to get your hands on some silicone oil in a hobby shop or DIY retailer and it is pretty cheap (especially if it cures this problem for you). :D

Hi, thanks for your reply, I'd done just that and it's been fine for the past month or so now :thumbs_up:

Amazing how something that seemingly insignificant can make such a difference to how enjoyable the car is to drive!

Or someone with Vida :thumbs_up:

yes i have figured it out.. similar to what you said. i figured it out by accident. Here is how i did it.
1) open all doors, trunk, bonnet (doenst have to be fully/wide open)
2) press the lock button on driver side door (NOT KEY FOB)
3) After pressing the lock button immediately close the drivers door, left rear passenger door, trunk, right rear passenger door, front passenger door and finally the bonnet ( i do in that sequence and do not take long time ( about 6-9seconds)
3) you are done. As soon as you close that last door (bonnet). it will automatically flash.

give it a try. This worked every time for me. i want to see if it works for anyone else as well.:thumbs_up:

Re Steering boot .....
I had a similar problem after dropping the engine for a clutch and flywheel replacement.
I stupidly put some lube on the rubber to help it slip in .....since then it keeps slipping out and the noise from the turbo is horrid. the solution is a a tie wrap.
First picture is what it should look like, second picture with tie wrap. No noise or problems for 3 months now, just coming up to changing the cam belt at 180K mls on the S60D5.
ps will upload photos when i can find out how to do it.

OK Here are the photos ......

Good idea, I'll dig out some cable ties! Thanks!

Got rid of the "Engine System Service Required" warning recently with a 20p 2mm nut and bolt instead of the £700 that the dealer wanted to replace the whole swirl arm assembly! Pics when I get five minutes :thumbs_up:

id be interested in hearing this ..

I'll get some pictures of the money pit's engine bay and post them up tomorrow for you, in the meantime, grab a 2mm nut and bolt, and file down the bolt to approx 20mm :thumbs_up:

If you have locking wheel nuts ('bolts' to be totally accurate!!) get rid of them before one shears off and leaves you in a total mess.

Trust me on this.....

Mine had a split wire in the harness going to the trunk release button on the trunk.

Couldn't agree more!
 

Totally agree with this one - I found out the hard way!

I had a flat tyre at work and the security guys helpfully tried to change it for me, except one of the locking nuts sheared off. They could do nothing so I phoned the breakdown rescue people, who also could do nothing except take the car to the local dealer. Of course by then they were closed.

The next day they fixed the wheel and asked me if I wanted to replace the locking nuts with ordinary ones - needless to say I said "Yes!"

find your doors dont quite run flush with the rest of the car?...

door hinges; youll see 3 line marking on them. and dots on the actual pillar.
you have to lign the middle line to the dots. loosen the torq 40 bolts a lil (do not remove these bolts) an retighten when correct
http://i1036.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7917c7bb.jpg

front wheel knock
 

As title, if you hear a knocking noise coming from the front wheels it could be the centre bolts behind the dust cap that have come loose. Tightening them up again will work for a while.

To make a permanent fix buy the XC90 bolts with a rubber cone on them and they won't come loose again.

HTH

Loss of power on D5 when accelerating hard but fine normally
 

Upon accelerating hard in D5 (mine is a 2003 V70), you find that the car's power suddenly stops pulling around 2-3000 rpm, with the car very reluctant to climb above that (mine was accompanied by the sound of someone trying to such an orange through a hosepipe!). However, when accelerating gently, the car pulls cleanly all the way to the red line. The collapse was accompanied by the "Engine Service Required" warning which cleared upon an engine restart.

The problem was not the intercooler, turbo or anything other expensive - it was the turbo inlet pipe. It had gone soft with age and had split; when accelerating hard the pipe was collapsing, starving the turbo of air. Accelerating gently meant the pressure was never enough to collapse the pipe. The pipe is only about £50 and a relatively easy fix - on my car, I could actually see the split before asking my local garage to swap it whilst in for a service (they only charged me for 30 minutes labour to do the job as they were doing the cambelt at the same time) - and that's my Volvo main dealer (Johnson's of Swindon).

I've written up the location on the attachment as the pipe is a little awkward to find but easy once you know where it is. I'd guess you could easily do this yourself (I was being lazy as the car was going in anyway).

Hope this helps!

Cheers for this info, sounds exactly what im experiencing

Is this the offending part???

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FRESH-AIR-...81013387995%26