How to replace the Front Seat Belt
This is a guide of how to replace the drivers seat belt. This is only a guide and I would advice caution when attempting to follow my instructions, as there is a pyrotechnic device at the bottom part of the seatbelt mechanism which is meant to be activated in case of an accident.
Even though we will not be disconnecting any of the SRS cables, I would strongly advice disconnecting the battery and waiting for at least 20 minutes before you start. Also make sure that you have the Stereo security code handy before you disconnect the battery. First thing to do is to undo the two screws on the drivers trim and lift it up carefully. http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...atbelt/001.jpg Also remove the rear passengers door trim http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...atbelt/002.jpg You need to remove this plastic trim. Easy to take out. There is one clip on the top right hand side of it which releases very easily. See also next photo. Do not remove the screw hoplding the seatbelt yet. We will do so later on. http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...atbelt/003.jpg http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...atbelt/004.jpg Remove the lower plastic trim first. release the lower part first and then wiggle it out. http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...atbelt/005.jpg Undo a bit of the inner door seals on both the drivers and rear passengers door frames (see photo). Be a bit careful with the top grey plastic trim. If you just pull it, you may break the plastic clip holding it. The way to remove it is to push gently the lower part towards the front of the car (see arrow) and it will come of the clip. Then move it slightly downwards and take it out. check the next two photos and you will see what I mean http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...atbelt/006.jpg http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...atbelt/007.jpg Remove the metal clip from the car frame and put it back in its place on the upper grey trim. You will need to push the two ends of the clip so it is released from the frame http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...atbelt/008.jpg And now the fun bit. You can either remove the whole unit and take it indoors and change the seatbelt, or follow my instructions below. I found this to be easier and faster. Pull out the seatbelt all the way out. When doing so, try to have the part highlighted in the green circle (oval) facing the way I have it on the photo. You will have to pul out the seatbelt from there. The spring mechanism needs to be secured to this position. To do so, I used some electrical tape. I used 3 bits and the mechanism was not moving any more. Use you common sense when doing so and be careful the tape comes undone. If this happens, you will have to rewind the whole rotating mechanism and you will not know how far to go. So whatever you do, make sure you secure it properly. See also next photo of how I secured it. http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...atbelt/009.jpg http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...atbelt/010.jpg Once secured, pull out the seatbelt and slide off the pin which is securing it on the rotating spring mechanism. See also next photo http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...atbelt/011.jpg http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...atbelt/012.jpg Before you pull out the seatbelt, feed the new seatbelt though the upper plastic trim and have it ready to be fitted to the rotating mechanism. http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...atbelt/013.jpg Pull out the old seatbelt and immediately feed the new one through the gap and secure it with the pin. In order to feed the new seatbelt in, you will have to rotate the spring mechanism about 90 degrees. If you have taped the mechanism the same way I did, it should be able to move in one direction only. http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...atbelt/014.jpg http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...atbelt/015.jpg Undo the bolt (size 14 socket), remove the old seatbelt and put the new one in. http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...atbelt/016.jpg Job done. Well you need to put everything back together in the reverse order. Good luck and if you have any questions, suggestions or better ways to do things, please feel free to comment |
That is a cracking "how to" guide and it is going to make changing my seatbelt so much easier, thank you.
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Great set of photos there, accompanied by a good script!
I've a couple of questions if I may... have you used a new seat belt for replacement and if so how much did it cost. I was all waiting from the very beginning of reading that, to expect a piece of red plastic which is hidden behind the plastic cover used to wedge the bottom seat attachment, for something which acts as a safety device. I wonder if it's only for use on different phase models... think I ought to be searching :) Done a bit of searching and it would appear to be the older phases had a mechanical SIPS system. |
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I had two spare seatbelts from the car I am breaking. One went to stevo48 and one in my car as my drivers belt was not in the best condition. I was hoping that the rear seatbelts would work too, but they are a bit longer and they have a slightly different lower adaptor on the bottom. I may have one more seatbelt from last year, but I am not sure where it is. If I find it I will pm you. I will post some photos and info tomorrow about the length of the belt and and the shape of the lower metal bit |
Gatos many thanks for your answers my V40 is a Phase 2, so there aint no RED bit... we're electric. The thread I'd seen the RED bit in was DWM's Retro fitting heated seats and he'd done it on a 97' Phase 1.
I was just trying to prepare myself for future cost of new front belts... I think new ones might take a deep breath before ordering! It's a shame Volvo didn't design the door pillar covers with a bit more thought... I assume its the sawing action of the belt thro' the plastic that causes the problem, isn't it. |
Yes that seems to be the most probable cause. I remember seeing a guide somewhere of how to fit a U shaped metallic sleeve, that would stop both belt and cover getting damaged. Will search around to try to find it
Edited: Found it. 4 forty is the one who did it. Will pm him for photo and how too.... Thread is here: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=9186 Also thanks to Andy_d for pointing out to me the torque settings for the seatbelt bolts. They should be both tightened to 48Nm / 35 foot pounds |
Fantastic "how to" guide, had my new seatbelt fitted in under thirty minutes, many thanks gatos :thumbs_up:
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Glad I could help... :)
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Cheers mate, it worked a treat and I didn't break a thing.
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I'm over in Ireland and have the same issue with the belt fraying from the trim aperture.
I see a fair number of used passenger side belts on the internet but second hand Drivers side ones are much rarer. Can I use just the belt from one of these near side units as a replacement on the drivers side??? |
Great guide -many thanks:thumbs_up:
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thanks this is a wonderful guide, i guess this will help many of us
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Grate guide gatos as always :thumbs_up:
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This is awesome. I'll have to do that one day.
This should all be organized on the guides forum ! Gatos I really appreciate these. It's because of those things that I keep my S40. |
Best part is that you can get a passengers seatbelt, which is cheaper and easier to get hold of, and use the belt to swap it with the driver's one. Rear seat belts will not do the trick, as they are about 1 &1/2 foot longer and the metal bit that is bolted to the side of the seat is angled.
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yes my seat belt is frayed, so at least i can do the job myself now after seeing this thread once i get a replacement belt.
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You need to remove this plastic trim. Easy to take out. There is one clip on the top right hand side of it which releases very easily. See also next photo. Do not remove the screw hoplding the seatbelt yet. We will do so later on.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...atbelt/003.jpg http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...atbelt/004.jpg Undo the bolt (size 14 socket), remove the old seatbelt and put the new one in. http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...atbelt/016.jpg |
oops..... wrong post:(
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Locked Seat Belt
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I read this guide and thought very interesting should I ever need it.
The next day, I parked at an angle in a public car park, my seatbelt locked and has not budged since. As it fits me, it is presumably safe to drive the car but it reminds me of when seat belts were static. I have lost the luxury of inertia reel. My car I believe is a phase 1.5, it is a 99 model and is definitely "cross over", in many ways. I have attached 2 photos which show the pre tensioner with the lower cover panel removed. And my question ! Is the seat belt a phase 1 or a phase 2 ? Do any of you knowledgeable people have an easy way to tell please ? |
Both P1 and P2 seatbelt mechanisms are interchangeable. I tested a P1 seatbelt mechanism on a P2 and vice versa and everything seemed to be working fine. No SRS light came on.
The only one thing that looked different was .......................... the colour of this small part. See the photo below http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...atbelt/009.jpg Above the green highlighted oval, you can see a blue plastic part. On the Phase 2 cars it is blue and on the Phase 1 cars it is black. As I said before both P1 and P2 seatbels are interchangeable. The only thing to look out for is the buckle. On the late 2003-2004 model, the buckle on them has 2 smaller rectanguler holes instead of the 1 larger rectangular one on the earlier models. Hope this helps See photos below: http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...y/DSCF1761.jpg http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...y/DSCF4203.jpg |
Thank you Gatos for being so very helpful. I really do appreciate it as I am sure we all do on the forum.
I have just removed the top trim and the item is coloured black so presumably phase 1. Also the buckle has the one square hole. 2 more photos attached. Actually, with the trim detached, I can make the belt coil back up, but then it is a real pain to pull back out. Just taken me half an hour. So, the belt is now adjusted perfectly for me again and a strong clip attached on it to keep the setting. To remove, presumably 1 large bolt at top, 1 bolt below and then a domed bolt which holds the pyro cylinder. I think all torx fittings. I need a working phase 1 or early phase 2 drivers seat belt. Preferably not frayed although I could swap it with my webbing. Can anyone help please ? |
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Sorry, forgot the photos in the above message
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It is Phase 1 one. I think Jabe should still have one left. Try PMing him and see if he does. Or, alternatively, I have one where the pyrotechnic has gone off. The winding mechanism is working fine though. If you want to mess around with it, just let me know and you can have it for free. Just pay the postage
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Thanks for the offer and the advice Gatos but would rather not mess with the pyro asembly. I have sent a pm to Jabe.
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Just for interest, I managed to get a phase 2 unit with the blue coloured top.
Removed my phase 1 type with the black coloured top and installed the new unit. All works perfectly and the check lights all go off as before. What a pleasure to have the inertia reel effect back. |
Seat belt Buckles
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The original belts had the 1 hole type buckle The "new" belt is the 2 hole type The good news is that both types fit the early (one hole) stalk. (my NSF belt is one hole and OSF belt is two hole) both fit in either seat stalk and the stalks appear to be original - 1 hole. Other things I have learnt - the "dealers" fix for frayed seat belts is to trim off the frayed material then singe with a lighter. Remove the belt and turn it over so the other edge of the belt wears. Not sure if its an approved method but there it is. |
I have broken 2 V40's and had 3, non have had frayed seat belts, but all have been owned by people about 6' tall, looking at design and the way the belt rolls up, if someone shorter drives car, the belt is dragged against the bottom of the trim, and when it recoils doesn't recoil neatly, but coils over part of the lower section of the mechanism, so next time it pulls out, it just rubs more, regardless of size of person
out of interest (but never photographed it or anything) did my non scientific experiment with trim removed, with me sitting in drivers seat, and putting on and off seat belt, and my son, doing the same, the way the belt recoiled with son sitting in car, would have meant it would have heavily dragged on trim recoiling , and when next pulled out, when I sat there, I'm 6' tall, belt recoiled neatly. Just as another thing worth noting, don't try and uncoil a replacement seat belt, or check mechanism works, until it is fitted in car, as it only works at angle its designed to sit in car, +/- a very few degrees, which is why even when parked on a steep hill, or trying to put on belt whilst moving, they sometimes keep locking. |
Great guide, this will be helpful :)
The driver's seat belt in my S40 got stuck, not going in or out. I am looking for used ones on ebay(uk), but I am afraid it wont fit, since I am in Portugal(LHD) and the ones that I find in ebay are obviously from RHD cars. Does a passenger seat belt from a RHD car fit on the driver side of LHD car? |
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only thing to remember to about buying UK, is that postage is at buyers risk, as officially banned from going in normal courier services (although people do obviously)
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That's good to know. Thanks!
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Great!
I'll be anxiously waiting for it :) |
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Here are the photos as promised. |
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Advice please re replacing seat belt and mechanism on v40 51
Any help would be much appreciated! MOT due and have replacement mechanism but worried I may cause myself even more problems. Warning light on also and have replaced module with new but no means of clearing! This has been a brilliant car too - had it since 2007 with no problems.
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