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Air recirculation

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Old Jun 13th, 2007, 10:25   #21
manoman48
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The procedure is on the website

==> here <==
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Old Mar 21st, 2009, 10:31   #22
adani24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manoman48 View Post
The procedure is on the website

==> here <==
Thanks for all the useful info on this post, I have the same problem in my v40, I will try the method detailed by Paul today
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Old Sep 23rd, 2009, 20:09   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4 forty View Post
i have e mailed the procedure for gaining access to the recirculation motor.

you DO not have to purchase a new motor because of this, just turn the gearing cog arround 180 degrees, as only one side is permanently used.

paul
hi paul, new meber, same thing happended tonight to me, can yu mail me the procedure please tks
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Old Jun 6th, 2010, 23:31   #24
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i have this clicking problem, but only for ~20 seconds after i turn on the ignition or turn off air recirculation. Then its fine. i've got used to it now, so i'll remember the fix if it ever turns permanent, but for now i think i'll avoid taking it to bits.
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Old Jun 18th, 2010, 23:50   #25
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Hi Paul, could you send me a copy of this as I experienced the dreaded clicking yesterday
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Old Oct 25th, 2011, 10:55   #26
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Hi 4 Forty, is there any chance you could email me the procedure for fixing this clicking problem?

Hi 4 Forty, I have just joined the forum as I bought a second hand S40 a few days ago. Unfortunately it seems to have the same problem as many others, when the fan switch is set to NOT recirculate I get a loud clicking noise from somewhere near the passengers side glove compartment. When I switch it to recirculate, the clicking stops. I notice you said you had emailed a detailed procedure to one of the other members regarding this exact problem. Is there any chance you could email me the same procedure please?
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Old Oct 25th, 2011, 11:33   #27
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Here are the photos when we repaired it on Siamblue's car. The following guide was written by 4 forty and it is really helpful.

I was meant to write my own step by step guide but have been lazy recently.

Quote:
First remove the footwell cover on the passenger side (2 screws). Unscrew the 2 screws on the hinges of the glove compartment and remove the glove compartment. Unscrew the 3 screws on the wall behind the glove compartment, pop out the plastic plug on the bottom of the dash on the left side and unscrew the 10mm screw behind it.

To gain access to this screw on the left passenger side, you will have to unscrew and remove the lining on the left side of the middle consul, only 1 screw, easy to find.
After you have unscrewed the 10mm screw on the left side, use a flat screwdriver to pop off the metal bar you’ve just unscrewed and push it aside or remove it completely.
*
This will give you extra room to get your hands in. Now take a very short Phillips driver, pull the dash away so that you can reach in from the right side under the side window air vent, you should see the servos plastic housing with a cable coming in from the top right hand right and white plastic arm protruding from the left.
*
The motor is secured with 3 screws, 1 on the top right,2 on the bottom left, remove the top one, there is no room to unscrew the two bottom ones, you would have to remove the whole dash, BUT! There is a way around it.
*
Drill 2 holes in the top right hand corner of the wall behind the glove compartment, first one about a centimeter from the top and almost tight to the right wall, (make sure that there is room to get your screwdriver in). The second hole should be about 3cm to the left and at the same height. For the right position of both holes, reach behind the dash and feel the screws, a 15mm drill was used because it makes clean holes and rubber plugs can be fitted in the holes.
*
Now unscrew the 2 screws, turn the white plastic arm so it disengages the metal rod and pull out the servo. you can either purchase a new servo unit which is about £30 and less time consuming, or repair it following the*undermentioned instructions..*On the servo housing you will find plastic clips that hold it together, carefully prise them away and open the housing as far as you can, being careful not to break them!!

There are 3 plastic gears in there, plus a small gear on the motor and the part that moves with the arm, try to figure out how they are assembled so that you will be able to put them back together again. You might have trouble getting the housing to open fully, this is because of the partial gear on the arm, and it is caught behind another gear which has to pass by the small gear on the motor before it will pop open. Try to prise it apart without breaking anything.
*
After you have opened the housing you will notice that the small gear on the motor axle has been pulled off centre, this is why the motor was clicking, push the gear back on so that it is in centre of the gear which engages it when assembled. Now pull out the metal axles on which the gears were and stick them in the holes of the lid. R
*
Reassemble all the gears and join the top and bottom parts the clips should then lock properly, reverse all steps and reassemble, don’t worry about the alignment of the arm, it will turn to the proper position when you engage the recirculation button..

*by courtesy of volvo car club member 4 forty
*
Paul
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Last edited by gatos; Oct 25th, 2011 at 11:36.
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Old Oct 26th, 2011, 12:44   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4 forty View Post
i have e mailed the procedure for gaining access to the recirculation motor.

you DO not have to purchase a new motor because of this, just turn the gearing cog arround 180 degrees, as only one side is permanently used.

paul
Hi I have the same problem all of the heating including the aircon work fine but the clicking noise comes from the dash when you put your foot down on accellerator and it is driving me nuts can you e-mail me a solution i have a 2002 V40 ds it has had a heater fan resistor replaced in 2007 not sure if that is anything to do with it? thanks fiona my e-mail fsr41@btinternet.com
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Old Oct 26th, 2011, 13:07   #29
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See my post above Spurdog. This is the method to do it
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Old Nov 11th, 2011, 17:05   #30
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I had this happen to me today too. Battery went flat and as I tried to start it a soloniod started to click in and out flashing various circuits. After I charged and replaced the battery I had the dreaded clicking on Fuse #12/Recirculation.

I'm guessing the P1 and P2 part are different parts?
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