262 General: V6 not starting

[1978]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

They might be but so far what you've said doesn't put me off thinking that with some ATF in with the petrol they may just get clean enough to start flowing again. As you've already done more work than i thought, just adding the ATF to the tank would be all that's needed. However if you add the meths and ATF to a litre or 2 of fuel to mix it it will go in easier.

The in-tank pump is about 20psi but something like 80-100 galls/hour flow, the main pressure pump (sounds like you've located it) is lower flow but depending on the exact pump fitted will be in the region of 60-90psi. As you appear to have plenty of flow but very little pressure (compared to what the injectors need) the hammer trick on that underbody pump combined with the ATF might just get it running better. It's almost free so worth a try especially as ultrasonic injector cleaning is about £15 (+VAT usually) per injector :

https://www.emeraldm3d.com/emerald-s...ditioning.html

Not sure if they do K-Jet injectors, just electronic ones so i'd suggest a phone call to check before sending them off.

Many thanks again Dave, I'll get back to the car next week and try the pressure pump hammer trick and a ATF. I contacted a company who cleans the injectors, however he does think that the injectors may not benefit from a clean as they have been sitting in the car unused and without fuel since 1998 that they may well have corrosion in side and even if they get them free of debris there would be a chance that the seats will be pitted and with the cost of cleaning, new injectors would be a better bet. We will check first though what you are suggesting just to make sure.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by 1978

Many thanks again Dave, I'll get back to the car next week and try the pressure pump hammer trick and a ATF. I contacted a company who cleans the injectors, however he does think that the injectors may not benefit from a clean as they have been sitting in the car unused and without fuel since 1998 that they may well have corrosion in side and even if they get them free of debris there would be a chance that the seats will be pitted and with the cost of cleaning, new injectors would be a better bet. We will check first though what you are suggesting just to make sure.

The thing to do then is try what i suggested, see if you can get them flowing and if tapping the main pump underneath gets it going and restores fuel pressure and if so, do they leak when the engine is switched off? If they leak then yes, you'll have to go for new injectors but if it's just a bit of dirt causing it, that should clear in time. Leaky injectors will cause hot start problems though so you may have to give it the hot start method when it is hot.

[1978]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

The thing to do then is try what i suggested, see if you can get them flowing and if tapping the main pump underneath gets it going and restores fuel pressure and if so, do they leak when the engine is switched off? If they leak then yes, you'll have to go for new injectors but if it's just a bit of dirt causing it, that should clear in time. Leaky injectors will cause hot start problems though so you may have to give it the hot start method when it is hot.

Many thanks Dave for your time in the responses, definitely be giving the pump the hammer treatment. Will keep you up dated
Cheers Pete

[DOUGIE68]

Having revived few old 262c ( and broken up some) I feel your pain but there is only one way to deal with it... New injectors and seals, the engine will simply not behave if there are any airleaks. they are about £23+vat each and available everywhere.
When you did the metering unit did you hone the cast faces flat and to a polish and did you smear a very thin film of Loctite on each face? If not you get leakage across the ports.
Another common issue is the tank rusting from the inside.

Was the car you got the one that went to auction with 20000mls a few months back?

[1978]

Originally Posted by DOUGIE68

Having revived few old 262c ( and broken up some) I feel your pain but there is only one way to deal with it... New injectors and seals, the engine will simply not behave if there are any airleaks. they are about £23+vat each and available everywhere.
When you did the metering unit did you hone the cast faces flat and to a polish and did you smear a very thin film of Loctite on each face? If not you get leakage across the ports.
Another common issue is the tank rusting from the inside.

Was the car you got the one that went to auction with 20000mls a few months back?

Hi Dougie68, Many thanks also for your valuable input.
When we ordered the fuel distributor kit it came with 1200 grit sandpaper but no sealant. We used the sandpaper to surface the faces. We had some of the non sealing sealant on the self here which was a similar type recommended with the kit. Once I can get back on to the car and get some higher fuel pressure through I am expecting some leakage at the injectors!
As yet I haven't been able to get back onto the Volvo due to an unforeseen illness which has left me home bound since the weekend but recovering slowly.
No, this wasn't the one that was at auction, or at least I don't think so, bought it in October and it has 127,000 mls on it. It is LHD model.

[DOUGIE68]

Originally Posted by 1978

Hi Dougie68, Many thanks also for your valuable input.
When we ordered the fuel distributor kit it came with 1200 grit sandpaper but no sealant. We used the sandpaper to surface the faces. We had some of the non sealing sealant on the self here which was a similar type recommended with the kit. Once I can get back on to the car and get some higher fuel pressure through I am expecting some leakage at the injectors!
As yet I haven't been able to get back onto the Volvo due to an unforeseen illness which has left me home bound since the weekend but recovering slowly.
No, this wasn't the one that was at auction, or at least I don't think so, bought it in October and it has 127,000 mls on it. It is LHD model.

Quite simply, dont bother until you get injectors. they will leak and flood the engine, fill the manifold and sump full of petrol. Also are you sure you havent blocked the air balance pinhole on the tin gasket with sealant? Also check the wiring loom from the ignition module to the coil. It can chaff where it passes the strutop. Sand paper is no good for faces as it doesnt get the faces flat. Gotta use a honing stone. 127k on B27/early B28?? id be checking if it still has lobes on the cams. ( plenty engines and 262c parts here)
You can bypass the fuel pump relay to get the pump to run constantly to check pressure and to start the engine overriding the safety system. If it starts the relay is faulty. Common problem.

[1978]

Originally Posted by DOUGIE68

Quite simply, dont bother until you get injectors. they will leak and flood the engine, fill the manifold and sump full of petrol. Also are you sure you havent blocked the air balance pinhole on the tin gasket with sealant? Also check the wiring loom from the ignition module to the coil. It can chaff where it passes the strutop. Sand paper is no good for faces as it doesnt get the faces flat. Gotta use a honing stone. 127k on B27/early B28?? id be checking if it still has lobes on the cams. ( plenty engines and 262c parts here)
You can bypass the fuel pump relay to get the pump to run constantly to check pressure and to start the engine overriding the safety system. If it starts the relay is faulty. Common problem.

Thanks again Dougie68, good to know you have plenty of 262c parts. We have had the car running albeit on one bank, it will run on all 6 with easy start squirted down the intake, though we know this isn't ideal it was just to find out whether it would run first off. With the fuel distributor I did as the kit instructions were laid out so hopefully it'll be okay. Before we bought the car as a barn find somebody had been messing with the car as it looks like it had problems before. The fuel pump in the tank had been changed and wasn't pumping though it was working. We removed the pump to bench test onlly to discover the pump had been wired positive earth
Once we sorted this we had fuel at the engine bay filter and into the fuel distributor. This was where we decided to crank it over to see if it would start. It fired up on easy start then after a few more cranks the engine started but as I said ran on the right hand bank. We didn't run it for too long as the top rad hose is missing and no water in the system. I think it was only running off the cold start solenoid? We also noticed that the fuel distributor was leaking between the two halves and fuel was only dribbling out of the left banjo coupling which fed the left hand bank. That's when we bought the new kit and pulled apart the unit only to find that some one had been in there before and one of the small tops off the spring was not where it should have been and had punctured a hole in the tin gasket. I replaced everything that was in the kit and reassembled the unit, we then had fuel pressure from the fuel distributor although not what I thought would be great pressure. The car started again after a squirt of easy start, then stopped again, after a few tries it would fire on about 3 cylinders and kind of run roughly on fuel. There was no leaking from the fuel distributor which was good. Then it just would not start. But did on easy start. We pulled the injectors out and blew high pressure through them, 3 sprayed out fuel fairly evenly 2 injectors made loud squealy sound like half blocked and one would not blow through at all.
I am going to check the fuel pump under the car as we have been informed that there is a high pressure pump there and would like to check to see if this is working as well. Will also by pass the relay as you have suggested just to make sure there are no leaks or find leaks.
But I am sure it will defiantly need injectors as you say and will be first port of call to source some as they are fairly easy obtained here.
Many Thanks Pete