JJs Project Thread - 240 GL Estate

[Problemchild1976]

Originally Posted by Problemchild1976

Given the temp variations and inability for the car to get up to temp I thought I’d change the thermostat

Picked it up from classic swede at the same time as I got my clutch cylinder

It’s only 2 10mm nuts and the housing comes off



Well I’m glad I looked



So cleaned out the casing and the faces and refitted.

While I had it all apart I used a low pressure hose to flush the radiator, expansion tank and the block out - lots of brown yukky water (and bright green coolant)

So reassembled and refilled and ran the engine

Getting a nice stable temp

Assuming this is where the needle should be and not where it has been which is about half inch above the bottom line



Another job down

JJ

So I feel the car is running a bit hot - so ordered a new water pump just in case (for £20 and and easy swap out with no cam belt issues it’s got to be worth it)

Something to do on the weekend if the weather holds!!!


Meanwhile I took the chance to do something that’s been bugging me ……..

Remove the stump that was the car mobile phone aerial

Hair dryer
Fishing wire
Bit of leverage

Sorted










JJ

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Problemchild1976

So I feel the car is running a bit hot - so ordered a new water pump just in case (for £20 and and easy swap out with no cam belt issues it’s got to be worth it)

Something to do on the weekend if the weather holds!!!


Meanwhile I took the chance to do something that’s been bugging me ……..

Remove the stump that was the car mobile phone aerial

Hair dryer
Fishing wire
Bit of leverage

Sorted


JJ

The water pump is a pretty quick and easy thing to swap. It may be sensible to refill with water (rather than expensive ethylene glycol) for a while until you are sure you have everything working properly. There may be a frost on Friday - but that may well be the last one for the year.

Why do you think the motor is running hot? If you have an IR thermometer (not expensive and really useful) then you could check it at the thermostat housing:



Good project :-)

Alan

[Problemchild1976]

Originally Posted by Othen

The water pump is a pretty quick and easy thing to swap. It may be sensible to refill with water (rather than expensive ethylene glycol) for a while until you are sure you have everything working properly. There may be a frost on Friday - but that may well be the last one for the year.

Why do you think the motor is running hot? If you have an IR thermometer (not expensive and really useful) then you could check it at the thermostat housing:


Good project :-)

Alan

Thanks mate - gonna catch all the fluids this time and pour back in hahaha

I have an IR temp sensor the same as that but struggled to find it on the weekend

Why do I think it’s running hot?

1. The temp needle pops about horizontal
2. The top pipe is boiling and the lower is just warm (unknown that’s the job of the rad)
3. Massaging the pipes I feel I can slosh the fluid around too much and I don’t feel much movement
4. Needle is up to temp within about 1 mile

JJ

[Bob Meadows]

A descent engine/heater flush should be worthwhile at this stage:~

Central heating descaler is good: also compatible with dissimilar metals.
Bring up to heat a couple of times-leave as long as possible & flush out well until clear.
Some engines can produce what looks like Tomato Soup! (Don't taste it)
Regards Bob.

[Problemchild1976]

Originally Posted by Bob Meadows

A descent engine/heater flush should be worthwhile at this stage:~

Central heating descaler is good: also compatible with dissimilar metals.
Bring up to heat a couple of times-leave as long as possible & flush out well until clear.
Some engines can produce what looks like Tomato Soup! (Don't taste it)
Regards Bob.

Yeah used a holts speed flush on it

Just waiting for my water pump to arrive

New stainless exhaust today - whoop whoop

Lowering springs (60/40) and adjustable panhard ordered from classic swede

Usher engineering have agreed to band my wheels also

JJ

[Problemchild1976]

Got a nice full 2 1/4” stainless system by the lovely guys at infinity exhausts in Bristol

They did my smart ForFour BRABUS and will always be helpful

So
2 into 1 downpipe
Straight pipe
Single silencer
3” rolled

Pics









JJ

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Problemchild1976

Thanks mate - gonna catch all the fluids this time and pour back in hahaha

I have an IR temp sensor the same as that but struggled to find it on the weekend

Why do I think it’s running hot?

1. The temp needle pops about horizontal
2. The top pipe is boiling and the lower is just warm (unknown that’s the job of the rad)
3. Massaging the pipes I feel I can slosh the fluid around too much and I don’t feel much movement
4. Needle is up to temp within about 1 mile

JJ

Regarding your motor running hot. Last week (30 Mar) you reported that the thermostat had been changed and the temperature was nice and steady, the photo you posted of the gauge showed it exactly where one might expect it to be during normal operation. Are you now saying that was incorrect and there is something wrong?

You have a pressurised system, so the water in the top hose probably will be at a bit over 100C sometimes, that is what is supposed to happen - the bottom hose should be just warm, that is the radiator doing what it is supposed to. It woul be a good idea to find out that IR thermometer and see what is really happening before attempting a repair to a problem that may not exist.

The motor warming up quickly is due to the thermostat operating, why do you think that is wrong? If the radiator gets hot at the top then it is working. You should see the gauge rise quickly whilst the thermostat is closed, then drop down a little as it opens (after a mile or so depending on the environment), that cycle may repeat until the temperature stabilises, that is what is supposed to happen and is normal operation.

Changing the water pump is pretty cheap and easy, but it is a very simple machine with only one moving part, so unless it was leaking previously I would not expect it to make much difference. If you aren’t sure the system is sound then I’d still recommend refilling with water until you are happy it won’t need to come apart again. It will run exactly the same with water as a coolant; you can store that more expensive EG mixture until it is all working as it should.

Good fortune - just be careful not to spend too much on new parts you don’t need, it is very easy indeed for project costs to escalate out of all proportion to the motor car’s value.

Alan

[Problemchild1976]

Originally Posted by Othen

Regarding your motor running hot. Last week (30 Mar) you reported that the thermostat had been changed and the temperature was nice and steady, the photo you posted of the gauge showed it exactly where one might expect it to be during normal operation. Are you now saying that was incorrect and there is something wrong?

Alan

Thanks for the reply

1. It’s stable at horizontal yes but it gets there very quickly after under a mile - is this normal?

2. You are right, improbably panicking over nothing at all. Pipes are under 70 degC which is what I’d expect.

3. Yeah replacing parts is silly if unnecessary and it’s mechanically driven etc BUT for the sake of £20 - peace of mind from a 30yr old part that could destroy the whole engine - worth it

Thanks again for your input - really is appreciated mate

JJ

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Problemchild1976

Thanks for the reply

1. It’s stable at horizontal yes but it gets there very quickly after under a mile - is this normal?

2. You are right, improbably panicking over nothing at all. Pipes are under 70 degC which is what I’d expect.

3. Yeah replacing parts is silly if unnecessary and it’s mechanically driven etc BUT for the sake of £20 - peace of mind from a 30yr old part that could destroy the whole engine - worth it

Thanks again for your input - really is appreciated mate

JJ

When the motor first starts the gauge is measuring the temperature of some static water in the passages around the cylinders before the thermostat opens. It would not be surprising if the gauge rose pretty quickly under those conditions, but it might well fall back a bit at the second mile as the thermostat opens and mixes a radiator full of cold water with the hot stuff around the temperature sender. I notice this particularly with my 1963 Amazon, which has a mechanically operated gauge.

I didn't say you were silly for fitting a new water pump, but rather that you should not expect to see much difference in doing so unless it was leaking previously. I changed the water pump in the RB (a 42 year old 244) because it was leaking a little. I could have probably got away with just changing the rubber seal at the top, but as you say it was a cheap part (about £15 at the time I think). It is pretty unlikely that the water pump would destroy your whole engine.

Good fortune with the project - it is entirely up to you what you do with it of course, but I'd be wary of the project costs escalating with lots of bling - and you still have that rust at the back to fix properly one day.

Alan

[Problemchild1976]

Again - 100% agree

I’m never gonna recoup the money spent but it’s a project/hobby and I’m doing quite a lot with my 12yr old and hoping it gives him some engineering confidence

Understand that the temp sensor is in the block so will always seemingly get hot quickly - potentially in my other cars the temp sensor is in the rad so doesn’t start registering until that thermostat opens.

Warping the head was my main concern

The block is only at 80degC so I’m less worried now.

Water pump today - as i said, £25 delivered with the 3 x gaskets was a bargain

The previous owner already did the cam belt, fuel pump and a full service and I paid £2500 for the car.

It’s gonna have cost me about £4k by the time it’s lowered and got the banded steel wheels on so I think that’s a good price for a classic

Yeah that rear panel is a concern - it’s the water that sits in the rubber seal around the boot that’s the culprit

JJ