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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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New (to me) 1980 Volvo 244Views : 2027142 Replies : 4092Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Sep 21st, 2020, 16:19 | #1731 |
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Alan further to the post regarding wheel arch liners (rear)
I had to remove the same from my car today ('88 240) for a top up of rust treatment:~ The above are indeed marked as Volvo 240 R109 LOKARI Patent SF Regards Bob. |
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Sep 21st, 2020, 17:34 | #1732 | |
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I'll register on the Lokari DE website now - see if that part is listed. Many thanks, Alan PS. Bob, I have just redistered on the DE site and the liners are quoted as 190 Euros including shipping, with a 2-6 week order time. I'll give Volvovogue until this time next week and if I don't hear from them I'll get the liners from DE. I still have a Dutch bank account and can pay in Euros, so that is very convenient. Last edited by Othen; Sep 21st, 2020 at 17:43. Reason: Addition. |
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Sep 23rd, 2020, 09:11 | #1733 |
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Struts for teh Boot
The two struts that support the boot on the RB are getting a bit tired after 40 years, they still hold the boot, but only just and could do with changing. They are short, stumpy ones like this:
This company (SGS) manufacturers a replacement, in England and for a reasonable price, but the ad says it is the same part for the saloon and the estate: https://www.sgs-engineering.com/gsc2...tailgate-strut ... now, I don't have an estate to compare them with (I have not owned one for the last 32 years), so I'd like to confirm that is correct before I order replacements. Would someone check whether the strut is the same on both the 244 and the 245? Stay safe, Alan |
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Sep 23rd, 2020, 09:45 | #1734 | |
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A bit of a search suggests your original part number will be 1254057 and that doesn't match anything on the SGS listing you found, however it does match this one : https://www.sgs-engineering.com/gsc2...260-boot-strut Also on the body style, it says saloon so there's a fairly high chance that's the right one.
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Sep 23rd, 2020, 10:48 | #1735 | |
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I had rather suspected the struts would not be the same for the estate as the saloon, and the one in the first ad would be for the 245. The 260 one might well be right - I may drop them a line to confirm first. Best wishes, Alan |
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Sep 23rd, 2020, 11:05 | #1736 | |
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Sadly aftermarket manufacturers don't always have the right information! I needed a replacement pair of boot struts for my 827 Coupe and many suppliers said the saloon ones would fit. The struts were mounted on a different part of the boot honge so while the hinges were the same (which is what they'd based their assumption on), the length was longer on the Coupe because the boot lid was a different shape on the trailing edge so was heavier and needed longer, stronger gas springs/struts. That's why i'm suggesting you check the part number and go on that. I've also checked on fcpeuro.com but they don't appear to list anything which is a shame as even with S&H they'd almost certainly be cheaper!
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Sep 23rd, 2020, 12:19 | #1737 | |
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There is no rush whatsoever about this one, so I'll do a bit of research. I just tried to remove one of the struts for a closer look (laying in the boot upside down - it would have looked like I'd been murdered and stuffed into the trunk to a passer by...). I can't quite work out how the struts are secured. The outer end has this odd three sided cap that moves a little, but doesn't seem to loosen (I hope it is not a rivet): and the inside has some sort of pin that doesn't seem to have either an internal hexagon or torx key: any ideas? They are all in remarkably good condition for a 40 year old motor car, so I don't want to force anything. I can't imagine why Volvo would have used obscure fixings for such a commonplace part. You may also see a part number VERIN 07828 014 019 - Google doesn't produce any leads so I'm guessing that is obsolete. The extended stroke seems to be 210mm, so I'm thinking I could just replace the two struts with some universal gas struts (the sort that are sold to caravaners and so on) - for about a tenner a pair like these on eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal...97.m4902.l9144 There is nothing special about some 40 year old plastic struts so I'm not worried about authenticity, as long as they hold the boot lid up when I'm putting the shopping in. Best wishes, Alan PS. Or how about this for an idea: I suspect the original plastic struts are almost empty now (of nitrogen I should think), so how about drilling a hole near the top and tapping them for a Schrader valve so I can pump them up like I do my bike suspension? PPS. Skandix would appear to have just the right part: https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-part...k-lid/1000926/ ... but at a cost: 67,26 EUR plus shipping/side, so £150ish total. I think I'd prefer either the Schrader valve or universal gas strut for a tenner ideas - both in keeping with the RB's ethos :-) Last edited by Othen; Sep 23rd, 2020 at 13:11. Reason: Spelling error. |
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Sep 23rd, 2020, 13:30 | #1738 |
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Going for the most relevant points first Alan, the Skandix listing confirms the part number i found (1254057) so it would also seem the SGS struts i found would also work at a considerably cheaper cost.
With the fixings, the chewed silver fixing on one end looks suspiciously like there should have been a star washer on there originally and it was lost so a piece of aluminium was drilled to fit then folded to hold it on there. The other end that looks like a cheesehead cap screw also appears to have two blobs of weld holding it in if you enlarge the photo. Might pay to investigate these possibilities and invest in new mounting hardware at the same time. Failing that, bungee cords! I'm not sure if it would apply to the Volvo but on my Rover, the original method of bootlid elevation was a long expansion spring both sides. This hooked onto the hinge in a similar position to where the gas spring was fitted and the other end of the spring was behind the tail lights When mine went weak i fed a bungee cord through each spring and hooked the ends on so the bungees worked inside, in tandem with, the original springs. Not sure i'd want to even consider drilling into a gas spring, the pressures are incredibly high in there because it's such a small area. To give you an idea, i recently worked out that a 60mm diameter surface would support ~50kg with only 23psi but factor in the different load of the bood lid and that it's effectively a lever pushing back against the gas spring, it needs to be about 10 times as strong. With a much smaller effective area (perhaps 1/2 sq inch) the pressure again needs to be higher. Even though they're weak now, they still support the boot lid - just. That means there's still a very high pressure in there.
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Sep 23rd, 2020, 14:55 | #1739 | |
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It is always good to get a second opinion. I think you are right about the part #, the Skandix item confirms it so the SGS 260 parts should fit. I may end up grinding or drilling off the fixings, I still can't quite see how they come apart (but they do look like factory fixings because they are identical both sides). No matter, it would be a simple matter to re-attach them with ordinary shanked bolts. Access is a bit limited, I'll get my endoscope out sometime and have a look at what is on the other side of those two fixings. Giving the existing springs a bit of assistance with a bit of bungee cord might be a good idea Dave - the gas struts push rather than pull, so I'd have to think of some sort of mechanism. The Schrader valve idea probably was a bit too 'mad professor' :-) Last edited by Othen; Sep 23rd, 2020 at 15:04. |
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Sep 23rd, 2020, 15:33 | #1740 |
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The RB in the Rain
I re-painted the RB's roof a week or so ago, and even if I say so myself, it came out quite well for a rattle-can job.
This afternoon it is pouring outside - and I've just noticed that water streams now off the RB's roof where it used to puddle a little on the near horizontal surface. The shiny lacquer and a couple of good coats of wax polish are providing much better environmental protection - just in time for the winter. It is nice when something goes a little better than expected :-) |
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