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Guide: How to change oil, oil filter & fuel filter.

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Old Feb 25th, 2012, 16:16   #1
Biotoxic
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Cool Guide: How to change oil, oil filter & fuel filter.

For S40 Phase2 year 2003 TD 115 HP (Renault engine)

For those who wants to service their own cars.

Tools you will need:



Axle stands X2
A car Jack
Oil filter + engine oil
Diesel filter insert
Oil filter wrench (comes in all shapes and sizes, I used the basic one)
A wrench for draining oil from the sump.




Make sure you got everything you need before you start doing all this.

So then:

Run the engine for about 2-3 minutes from cold, no more than that. Make sure your the engine is cool enough to touch with your palm, otherwise you might get burns from the hot engine oil.

Leaving your engine running for those 2-3 minutes should be enough to make oil flow more faster and freely.


1. Jack up the car.
2. Make sure that axle stands are secured and that there is enough room for you to get under the car.
3. Remove engine cover ( I don't have it so I am skipping this one)
4. Locate a engine oil drain plug under the sump (It should be in the middle of sump)

5. Use something to catch the old oil (oil pan for example) Note: Put some old peace of cloth or newspapers under car, its in case if the oil doesn't want to go where you tell her to go. Meaning less mess at the end when you have to clean up all the oil spills/drips.

6. Wait until the engine oil has stopped dripping often than 1 drip per 3 seconds. (basically when there is no oil left in the sump )


7. Some say that you HAVE TO use a new washer when you tighten the oil drain plug, I say: you can use the old one.
So make sure you install the oil drain plug back in place and that it won't come loose, but do not over tighten it.

8. Remove the oil pan with the old engine oil from underneath the car. Oh look, its a black gold!!! The same stuff why some countries go to war with other less advanced countries Make sure you dispose of it properly!


For comparison:
Fresh engine oil on the left, used engine oil on the right.

its just ~9000 miles difference.

9. Remove the engine cover (if you have one)
10. Put some kitchen towels underneath the old oil filter housing.


and get ready to remove the old oil filter.


11. Watch the video. I didn't know how to use this type of oil wrench at first, but after some low quality youtube videos I have mastered this skill
[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m5ist...1&feature=plcp[/YOUTUBE]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m5ist...1&feature=plcp (if video doesn't work)
Yes, this is my first HD video on youtube and everywhere else. You might want to watch it on full screen.



but then I realised that I didn't put a peace of cloth under the oil filter properly and the engine oil which was inside the oil filter managed to escape...

make sure you do not make the same mistake.


12. Clean the filter housing.


13. Get you brand new oil filter


and apply a thin layer of a NEW engine oil to the NEW oil filter gasket, and pour a little bit of engine oil inside the filter itself.



[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6roL...6aAUAAAAAAABAA[/YOUTUBE]
again in full HD...

14. Put a kitchen towels under the oil filter housing and screw the oil filter in place. Note: Hand tighten only, you should NOT be able to unscrew the oil filter once you have it installed!



And all you need to do next is fill it HALF WAY with new engine oil, run the engine and check for leaks around the oil filter and under the car around the oil drain plug.

I use simple funnel to add the engine oil, By the way, I remove the crankcase ventilation hose to speed up the oil flow a bit.


Check the engine oil level next time when you want to go somewhere, top up if necessary.



Changing diesel/fuel filter.

Tools that you will need:

A new filter with 2 new gaskets (should come in one box)
A torq type wrench.
Size 10 spanner/socket


1. Remove the fuse box bolts X2.

looks like this

Note: be extra careful not to damage any relays or wiring.

2. Undo the bolt for the filter cap



Drain the fuel. There is a small bolt that looks like this

the same type is used for bleeding callipers, if you are familiar with this type you will know what to do. To unscrew it you need to rotate it CLOCKWISE.



Move the top part towards the turbo. Now you can see the old fuel filter.


remove it, it should come out easily.



I had to remove the whole fuel filter housing so that I could clean it, now I know how and why fuel pump and/or injectors cease to work... (about that, I will post a video later on next week)

3. Remove the old gasket, make sure that everything is clean underneath the gasket.


4. Install new gaskets.

Note: smallest one goes onto the long bolt that you had to remove on step 2.

5. Install the new filter.


6. Make sure that you tightened the bleeding bolt underneath fuel filter housing. Do not over tighten it.

7. Put the top part of fuel filter back on and tighten the bolt.
8. Pump the manual diesel pump around 3-4 times or until it gets hard, make sure that there is no leaks. If you are pumping and it doesn't get hard, then you most likely forgot to install the new gasket between the top part of fuel filter and the housing itself.
9. Install the fuse box back in place.

10. Start the car.

Rpms could go between 500-1200, it should be like that for few seconds, if it doesn't stop, then just rev the engine slightly. it should go back to normal.

And that's you finished.


Time wise it took me 4 hours, but it is including two short brakes, removing the whole filter housing, cleaning it and making sure that everything is fine.

Old VS New


Mann filter on the left, OEM filter on the right.

Last edited by Biotoxic; Feb 25th, 2012 at 16:45. Reason: Fixed youtube links, changed name, added pics
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Old Feb 25th, 2012, 16:35   #2
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i see your car has the suspension tie bar that i only thought the T4's have.
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Old Feb 25th, 2012, 16:40   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dog_Book View Post
i see your car has the suspension tie bar that i only thought the T4's have.
It's a Sport model, maybe because of that.
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Old Feb 25th, 2012, 17:36   #4
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Excellent guide and the only thing worth adding is that as the 1.9D holds 5.6 ltrs of oil, so you just need to add the 5 ltr can and then top off after the next trip.
The best oil according to both Volvo and the oil companies is a 5/40 fully synthetic that meets all the specs. The handbook gives other viscosity ratings but the pro's use 5/40 as an all season rating.
The oil change interval in the book is either 15,000 or 20,000 km according to the exact year, which in my opinion is nuts, so I just use 10,000 km (6,000 miles) for oil and filter changes, although the fuel filter is normally good for 20,000 km plus.
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Old Feb 25th, 2012, 20:35   #5
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hey , nice article.....where can i buy one of those fancy looking funnels?
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Old Feb 25th, 2012, 20:38   #6
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nice one biotoxic. i've serviced my own 02 reg diesel 3 times now, and i think it's the easiest car i've owned to service. the air filter is very easy as well.
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Old Feb 25th, 2012, 20:41   #7
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blairs 40. you don't need to buy one, just wait until recycling day, you can find them littering the streets.
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Old Feb 26th, 2012, 12:46   #8
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Old Feb 26th, 2012, 16:31   #9
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nice thread biotoxic,could you tell me where to pump the manual fuel pump,and what should i use to clean the fuel filter housing out with.and do i have to put 5.6ltrs of oil in should i change the air filter,even if its clean...thanks volvo v40 1.9 td estate 2003

Last edited by neanderthal; Feb 26th, 2012 at 16:39.
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Old Feb 26th, 2012, 16:52   #10
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Thanks for the guide, finally gave me the courage to change the fuel filter. Took a lot of pumps to get the pressure in built up at the end!

Cheers
Phil
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