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is there nowhere to bleed the coolant

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Old Feb 16th, 2015, 18:06   #1
ltec
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Default is there nowhere to bleed the coolant

Iv just put on a new water pump on 2004 s60 d5 and can't get the air out of it. I've tried leave the top off and revving her at about 2 and a half. There is plenty of heat inside but the fan comes on when temp hand half way up and the top hose still cold. Is there a bleeder somewhere that I can't find

Last edited by ltec; Feb 16th, 2015 at 18:09.
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Old Feb 16th, 2015, 18:12   #2
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Model, year and engine type would help.

I gently wiggled back the top radiator hose at the thermostat end and a decent amount of air released after I'd followed the standard procedure of 'top it up, run the engine and all the air will naturally bleed out'...

Edit: I see you have edited.
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Old Feb 16th, 2015, 19:10   #3
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Are you sure there is air in it ? The D5 takes a few chapters of a boring book to open the stat from cold and the cabin heater gets backdoor hot water.
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Old Feb 16th, 2015, 19:53   #4
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I assume there's air in it. The hot water should be circulating and the top hose hot before the fan comes on
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Old Feb 16th, 2015, 20:05   #5
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I had to keep the hood down to get the stat to open.

It should fill pretty high just pouring it in slow.


make sure the heater in the car is fully OFF


Stand by with your jug, keep sqeezing the hose that gives the most flow

They dont seem to airlock, thats why they dont have a high bleed
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Old Feb 16th, 2015, 21:33   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ltec View Post
I assume there's air in it. The hot water should be circulating and the top hose hot before the fan comes on
Your fan is triggered by the ECU which uses info from the coolant temp sensor.
The temp sensor is part of the thermostat housing and sits in the same coolant as your thermostat so....... if it's hot enough to trigger your fan, your thermostat should be open.
The way I see it, you've either got a sticking thermostat or your temp sensor is over reading the actual temp.
Or you could be unlucky and both are knackered.
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Old Feb 23rd, 2015, 19:21   #7
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in two decades of owning four different Volvos I have never had a problem with changing coolant and bleeding the system. Simply fill the system and run to working temperature: the system is self bleeding. So long as your gaskets and header tank and tank cap are good, you should have 0 problems. Volvo's coolant system is rock solid. The most vulnerable part is the thermostat a cheap and easy replacement! When changing coolant OPEN the heater controls NOT close.
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Old Feb 24th, 2015, 03:38   #8
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The system it's self bleeding, no air bleeding nipple. However, the thermostat has a burping pin inside that needs to sit upwards.


If the upper rad hose stays cold even with the coolant hot, then the t-stat is stuck closed. The coolant temp sensor that triggers the fan, can also be failing.
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Old Feb 24th, 2015, 19:35   #9
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For the heat on/off question during fill/purge...

the view I have (and its only my view) is that if the heater fan is on, it rips heat from the partially filled block, this prolongs the time the engine has to run to heat up and open the stat to complete the purge


(The water flow thru the heater matrix isnt controlled from the fan knob - they are not like the old mini heater when u put the heat on it ported hot water to the matrix - in this case your dead right as you need flow thru the heater to purge that too)
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Old Feb 24th, 2015, 19:58   #10
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Was the a/c on when all this was happening? Some cars put the fan on early if the a/c is running.
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