73es clutch cable

[rainflye]

Having an issue with clutch travel. The clutch engages/disengages about an inch above the floor. I have all the adjustment out of the cable I can get plus I have added a spacer under the ball on the end of the clutch cable in an attempt to get a higher pedal. Pedal engagement has not changed much.

Cable looks like it's been there a while. new clutch kit installed several thousand miles ago. Could there be some issue with new clutch kit? Can a cable stretch that much?




Just looking for a little direction before I start replacing parts randomly!




Thanks




Craig

[Ron Kwas]

Craig;

As well as stretching of the cable (not long before breaking), of cable operated clutches of 140s and late 1800s, these are also known for fatiguing and breaking of their throw-out forks at bell housing...insufficient clutch action at fork as you are experiencing is the symptom...this can be verified by inspection with a light...move dustboot at bellhousing and sight along fork for cracks/bending.

I recall a recent thread on this very subject in one of the forums...I suggest searching Brickboard and here. I will search Volvoniacs forum also and provide link if I find it...I recall there were some useful pictures and graphics posted.

Good hunting!

Found it...in this forum! Maverick had a similar problem in his late 122 with cable activated clutch: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showth...ht=Clutch+fork

[simonvolvo]

I would have said an inch above the floor is just about right. I don’t know why you want a “higher pedal”.

Are you sure your clutch cable is completely slack when the clutch pedal is released? You should be able to wiggle the clutch fork around (3 to 4 mm free travel) when the clutch pedal is released. At least, that is how it should be in the late model 120 with cable-operated clutch. (I’m not familiar with the ES.)

Copy from the “Green Book” (page 4-5):

[Ron Kwas]

Simon; I certainly agree that Clutch freeplay should be correctly adjusted (thanks for posting useful Manual extract!), but sudden symptoms of less Clutch disengagement action, or inability to adjust to a usable pedal are typically associated with either Cable or Fork failure.

Craig; Let us know what you find, and if a fractured Fork, please post some detailed pix!

Cheers

[rainflye]

Removed the sheath from the old cable and found a 1" long unstranded section of cable. All that was left was the solid center core which would have soon snapped! Installed the new cable and all is good plenty of adjustment and a great feel to the clutch peddle.



Thanks for all the responses



Having fun



Craig

[rainflye]

Here's what I found!IMG_0687.jpg

[Ron Kwas]

Craig;

Thanks for follow-up posting...consider yourself really lucky to have the (much) simpler of the two failures...replacing a cable takes a fraction of the work of replacing Throwout Fork! I always lube cables with graphite grease before installation to minimize any internal wear which might have contributed to cable failure...also to prevent the abrasion of rust (and I do believe I see rust on either side of the failure)... but maybe it was just its' time to go...

Not to rain on your parade, but unfortunately, you might still have the early, weaker Fork installed, so you still may have a built-in weakness...that's what happened to me...first cable failed, I replaced, then further down the road (a year), Fork failed...but if you ever develop similar symptoms in the future, you'll know what to look for.

Cheers

[rainflye]

One thing for sure...rain is always on the way! What does the reinforced fork look like and when did they implement it?

Craig

[Ron Kwas]

Craig;

Made of heavier gauge stock...read linked thread!

I don't know when Volvo changed, but exploded assembly diagrams and part number lists on GCP site may answer that.

Cheers

[Ron Kwas]

Craig;

Can you post a closer more detailed, well lit picture of break area.

Cheers