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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars

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Camber adjustment

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Old Mar 5th, 2017, 15:50   #1
CLIVERALLY
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Default Camber adjustment

A quick question......when adjusting the camber and removing the shims or adding them has the car got to be jacked on on the deck ?
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Old Mar 5th, 2017, 16:31   #2
Ron Kwas
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Clive;

I'd leave it on the ground with suspension loaded, (only) loosen both securing bolts, then using a big lever, pry the joint open for access...this will allow you to remove or add shims as you need (if you don't have shims, big fat fenderwashers with a slot bandsawed in to the hole will do it also...or by carefully removing the securing bolts (one at a time) and replacing all your shims with a stack of fender washers of the equal height, you wouldn't even have any slots (and there would be zero chance of ever loosing a shim!).

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Old Mar 6th, 2017, 13:09   #3
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With the body supported properly and stable with the front wheels just off the ground, axle stands under each of the front jacking positions and maybe a couple more under the front cross member as belt and braces, you can use a jack to juggle the tension on the suspension to give you a helping hand. For a useful amount of negative camber you just need to add an extra one of the thick (about 1/8") shims in each position.
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Old Mar 6th, 2017, 21:18   #4
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I seem to have two thick shims on each...no wonder I have a mad amount of neg camber
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Old Mar 7th, 2017, 12:06   #5
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Worth getting baseline measurements before any changes. Can check camber and castor with handy diy solutions like smart "inclinometer" apps, and the old front wheels on smooth surface and turn through 20deg trick.
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Old Mar 7th, 2017, 12:13   #6
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Default http://www.vclassics.com/archive/align.htm

I assume you have read this great article that has been around for years.
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Old Mar 7th, 2017, 12:17   #7
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Clive;

I have to agree with Jimbo! I'd also recommend measuring to determine current settings...simply noting shims currently installed is interesting info, but nowhere near accurate enough to make any kind of definite statements...!

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Old Mar 7th, 2017, 13:55   #8
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If you have 2 thick shims already it could well be that a PO has done the extra thick shim addition already. I doubt if it looks like a mad drift car now but as said, measure what you have now before making changes. If I remember correctly, adding one thick shim = 1 So an extra degree minus in this case. Book figures go 0-0.5 positive. Going a bit on the negative side helps handling.
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Old Mar 8th, 2017, 22:25   #9
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Hi have a camber gauge so measurement should not be an issue. The camber is well out and seems more pronounced since new bushes...thanks for the advice...will crack on next week if the weather allows....
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Old Mar 9th, 2017, 12:47   #10
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Loosen the nuts top and bottom both sides and give the car a good bouncing on a level surface, and then let the car settle normally to centralise the shocks. Retighten the nuts with the car sitting normally. Do this before you check the camber.
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