Engine: T5: Serpentine (Auxiliary) Belt Install

[eVolved]

Had no problem removing the serpentine (auxiliary) belt (V70XC 2002) to get down and replace alternator. However after installation of new tensioner pulley and unit, I cannot get the belt to slide back on over the steering pump pulley, however hard I apply force to the new belt tensioner, even with extra lever on wrench. The tensioner releases but it is just not providing enough slack to allow me to slide the last part of belt back on. Checked belt was properly centred and aligned on all pulleys but no luck. Anyone have any idea what is going on. Tried the new continental belt and the old one which is in good shape. Both same length, but no luck.

[cheshired5]

Not done the T5 but done several D5 and the knack there is to do the crank, ac, pas and alternator pulleys first then the tensioner or idler pulley last as there's no lip to clear when you're all out of slack.

[VOLVOBOY]

Hi.
I had the same problem with my T5.
After a lot of investigation the only info i can find is that there is a new belt length variation between manufacturers of up to 20mm. This is well within the range of the tensioner so shouldn`t cause a problem.
On top of that there is a variation in the diameter of compressor pulleys if that were replaced so a worse case scenario would be largest compressor pulley and smallest length belt.
I found all this out when i replaced the aircon compressor on mine. The new belt absolutely would not go on so i had to re-use the old one temporarily. Having bought a slightly longer belt i had the same situation as you. By slackening the steering pump bolts (and removing one) so that the pump rotates i could get the belt on. I had to rig the tensioner in the fully off position whilst faffing with the pump.
I was worried that the belt tension would be too great but weirdly it all works OK.
So, you`ve changed the alternator. Sounds like you have a similar issue with the pulley diameter size. Can you fit the pulley from the old to the new ?

[eVolved]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

Not done the T5 but done several D5 and the knack there is to do the crank, ac, pas and alternator pulleys first then the tensioner or idler pulley last as there's no lip to clear when you're all out of slack.

Yes I came across A1 Auto vid that took the same approach and realised the same point: no lip to faff around with. Have also ordered looonger Gearwrench tool to give me more leverage and use every available disengagement with the idler pulley.

[eVolved]

Originally Posted by VOLVOBOY

Hi.
I had the same problem with my T5.
After a lot of investigation the only info i can find is that there is a new belt length variation between manufacturers of up to 20mm. This is well within the range of the tensioner so shouldn`t cause a problem.
On top of that there is a variation in the diameter of compressor pulleys if that were replaced so a worse case scenario would be largest compressor pulley and smallest length belt.
I found all this out when i replaced the aircon compressor on mine. The new belt absolutely would not go on so i had to re-use the old one temporarily. Having bought a slightly longer belt i had the same situation as you. By slackening the steering pump bolts (and removing one) so that the pump rotates i could get the belt on. I had to rig the tensioner in the fully off position whilst faffing with the pump.
I was worried that the belt tension would be too great but weirdly it all works OK.
So, you`ve changed the alternator. Sounds like you have a similar issue with the pulley diameter size. Can you fit the pulley from the old to the new ?

When I say I have replaced the alternator, was short hand for replacing the regulator unit, so original body and pulley remain the same. It would seem after addition reasearch that all depends on getting maximum leverage with the tensioner tool to get the tensioner to fully disengage. Also try to do the final loading of the belt onto the tensioner pulley may help.

[cheshired5]

The D5 tensioner unit takes way more swing than you might imagine but handily has 2 holes which then align so a 4mm drill bit or similar locking pin can be inserted to take the load so you have both hands free for either tensioner unit removal or belt replacement/adjustment.

Sounds like the T5 doesn't have a similar arrangement?

[eVolved]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

The D5 tensioner unit takes way more swing than you might imagine but handily has 2 holes which then align so a 4mm drill bit or similar locking pin can be inserted to take the load so you have both hands free for either tensioner unit removal or belt replacement/adjustment.

Sounds like the T5 doesn't have a similar arrangement?

Thanks for that. Have heard ref to some having accommodation for locking pin. Will check my old one to locate it, assuming, as you say, it is there on the T5 version of the unit. Cheers. Sounds like fun: holding back a Roman catapult at full load while using the other hand to drop a fine pin into an elusive slot. Any volunteers?

[eVolved]

Originally Posted by eVolved

Thanks for that. Have heard ref to some having accommodation for locking pin. Will check my old one to locate it, assuming, as you say, it is there on the T5 version of the unit. Cheers. Sounds like fun: holding back a Roman catapult at full load while using the other hand to drop a fine pin into an elusive slot. Any volunteers?

Just a final follow up on my solution to this perplexing problem. Tried a tensioner tool with very long arm, but would not do the job as would not allow me to enter the socket into the tensioner body with the lever at the required 9 o’clock position. Would only allow access at 11 o’clock, which would the prevent me from fully releasing the tensioner. This was due to the long lever being fouled up by the firewall. Went back to using my shorter 3/8 Wera ratchet, which I could then enter at almost 8 o’clock position. I then ratchet to the 11 o’clock position and then placed an extruded length of box-section aluminium over the handle of the ratchet. This then allowed me to easily pull the lever all the way to the edge of the front cross member of the engine bay, which fully released the tensioner, allowing easy placement of the belt over the tensioner pulley. This is the best pulley to place it on, as there is no lip to try to edge the belt over.

Hope this helps others who run into a similar problem. Logic is the tensioner fully releases when you take the belt off, because it is already close to being under full tension, so it is easy to apply a small amount of leverage to activate full release of the belt. Conversely, starting from a completely untensioned position requires far more travel to fully engage the release of the tensioner.

[eVolved]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

The D5 tensioner unit takes way more swing than you might imagine but handily has 2 holes which then align so a 4mm drill bit or similar locking pin can be inserted to take the load so you have both hands free for either tensioner unit removal or belt replacement/adjustment.

Sounds like the T5 doesn't have a similar arrangement?

Just a final follow up on my solution to this perplexing problem.

No holes available for locking pin. Tried a tensioner tool with very long arm, but would not do the job as would not allow me to enter the socket into the tensioner body with the lever at the required 9 o’clock position. Would only allow access at 11 o’clock, which would then prevent me from fully releasing the tensioner. This was due to the long lever being fouled up by the firewall. Went back to using my shorter 3/8 Wera ratchet, which I could then enter at almost 8 o’clock position. I then ratchet to the 11 o’clock position and then placed an extruded length of box-section aluminium over the handle of the ratchet. This then allowed me to easily pull the lever all the way to the edge of the front cross member of the engine bay, which fully released the tensioner, allowing easy placement of the belt over the tensioner pulley. This is the best pulley to place it on, as there is no lip to try to edge the belt over.

Hope this helps others who run into a similar problem. Logic is the tensioner fully releases when you take the belt off, because it is already close to being under full tension, so it is easy to apply a small amount of leverage to activate full release of the belt. Conversely, starting from a completely untensioned position requires far more travel to fully engage the release of the tensioner.