AOC oil and filter change.

[S60D5-185]

Alex. I am a little confused by your last two posts.

In one you say that you have dropped the centre bearing but in the secong you seem to be querying if it is necessary.

To get the back of the prop out of the flange, remove the entire exhaust from the front flange near centre bearing backwards ( very quick to do with only the two flange bolts to remove } and then simply slip it off it's hangers

Remove the four bolts and heat shields from the centre bearing carrier and also remove the metal bracket that is further back and sits under prop.

Once done, support the remaining front section of exhaust DO NOT allow it to just dangle.

The centre bearing MUST bend and come down quite a way before the rear of the prop can be removed from the flange by using two bolts through flange that you mention to exert pressure on rear of prop. I only needed to use one bolt before it started to move.

Remember to mark position of prop relative to flange BEFORE disassembly so that you can put it back exactly where it came from .:thumbs_up:

[ShakTak]

To make matters worse, if you want to renew the filter and remove the pump you need to remove a nut that will only come off easily with a windy or elecy gun.

This applies to the Haldex type Gen 3, the Gen 4 filter and pump can be removed without removing anything at all.

To avoid all this hassle, you can just buy an oil pump and suck out the old oil and refill with new.

[Metallo]

Alex. I am a little confused by your last two posts.

In one you say that you have dropped the centre bearing but in the secong you seem to be querying if it is necessary.

To get the back of the prop out of the flange, remove the entire exhaust from the front flange near centre bearing backwards ( very quick to do with only the two flange bolts to remove } and then simply slip it off it's hangers

Remove the four bolts and heat shields from the centre bearing carrier and also remove the metal bracket that is further back and sits under prop.

Once done, support the remaining front section of exhaust DO NOT allow it to just dangle.

The centre bearing MUST bend and come down quite a way before the rear of the prop can be removed from the flange by using two bolts through flange that you mention to exert pressure on rear of prop. I only needed to use one bolt before it started to move.

Remember to mark position of prop relative to flange BEFORE disassembly so that you can put it back exactly where it came from .:thumbs_up:

Hi,

Thank you for your comments.

Sorry for the confusion, I definitely removed the centre bearing as well as the metal bracket.
I have been doing what you mentioned for 3 days now but the shaft does not move not even 1mm, even with two bolts on the back of the flange.
The only movement it does is the one of the rubber in the cv joint.

I bended the centre say, 10cm down, I am afraid to do it more because I do not want to force the catalytic converter to bend more than that.

I am re-assembling the whole thing and give up, I usually do not give up but after three days I think is time to realize that rust is probably the only thing preventing the shaft to come off and there is nothing further I can do. I am exhausted.


@tackit

You won't be able to suck out all the oil if you leave filter and oil pump in place.
I can try but I read some people were able to suck only 200ml or so.

Thanks
Alex

[100K+]

By using different dia tubes stuffed in the main tube you can suck out with a simple vacuum pump about 750ml. I got a jar and a half of fluid this way ( jam jars) leave the fluid to settle out for a few days, mine settled about 15mm of sediment per jar. I reused the old oil with new oil to do several flushes similar to an auto gear box flush. Don't forget to remove iirc 100ml after final top up.
Cheers
Bob

[Metallo]

My car is balanced on stands, once I fill in the new oil, should I do a short drive and then refill and suck out the 100ml?

Or shall I just fill up and then suck out the 100ml?

Alex

[100K+]

My car was off the road for a couple of weeks. I flushed about 10 times. I had about 2.5 litres of fluid in play and I was constantly removing contaminated fluid. I blew bubbles through the tube to disturb crud in haldex.
I removed the 100ml just before car was put back on the road.
Cheers
Bob

[Metallo]

Would you please confirm me this is the filling bolt?



I have the a fluid pump, let's see what happens.

Thank you!
Alex

[100K+]

Yes that's it.
Cheers
Bob

[Metallo]

Hi,

I managed to remove the two filter hex screws, but I have realised that the filter cannot be removed or re-inserted a new one, it simply cannot be done because there is not enough space between it and the flange.

I have Haldex 3, perhaps yours is 4 ??

Alex

[ShakTak]

You can pump out, fill, drive, repeat a few times and you'll get clean oil.

[ShakTak]

And you can get about 400 ml out if you try hard enough with a thin tube.

[100K+]

Hi,

I managed to remove the two filter hex screws, but I have realised that the filter cannot be removed or re-inserted a new one, it simply cannot be done because there is not enough space between it and the flange.

I have Haldex 3, perhaps yours is 4 ??

Alex

Unsure which haldex i have. Car is 2004 V70 AWDR. Filter can be removed, there is enough space. BUT you need to shorten the Allen key socket. Least that was how the procedure was explained to me. You cannot use the new filter end cap as its too big it fit back on - use the old flat one you took off its no issue as they are swappable.

Cheers

Bob

[niguk68]

Update

First I would like to say this was more difficult than I had thought. I am a time served mechanic of 25 years and have tools that most diyers will not have so I will try to be as specific as I can.

1. Remove negative battery terminal. If you don't have access to a vehicle lift or pit (which is best) then get your XC well jacked up safely on axle stands and I also put blocks under the rear wheels as well. Chock the front wheels and put in park or gear. Remember safety first, you are a long time dead.
2. I sugest removing the exhaust first as I didn't and struggled. It was much easyer putting it back together getting access to the propshaft bolts.
3. Remove the electrical plugs and the 2 x 4mm allen screws that hold on the haldex control box or DEM box as volvo call it.
4. Mark your propshaft and flange so when you re-fit it can go back in the same place. Remove the 6 x allen bolts that hold on the rear of the propshaft. Then find an m8 bolt x 20mm. On the back of the propshaft flange you will see 4 x extra m8 bolt holts (see pic in gallery). These are for pushing out the propshaft CV joint centre. I did it with just 1 bolt very carefully, but you may need to put at least 2. It all depends how stuck fast yours is.
5. Next remove the 4 x bolts from the propshaft centre bearing and let the propshaft down to the floor. If you are on a lift or over a pit I sugest tieing some string and supporting it. The heat shield will need to have the small plastic clips removed to allow this. Also forgot to say to support your cat exhaust on the flexi joint.
6. The next thing is to remove the 24mm nut that holds the propshaft flange to the AOC. I also marked the nut and shaft so as to try and tighten it to the same place when re-building. I used an air wrench to remove it. But i'm sure if you could hold the flange with say a filter strap you could get it undone.
7. Mark the flange and centre. I suggest the use of a puller to get the flange off. I very gently warmed mine with a blow lamp testing how hot it was getting from the back so as to not damage the oil seal. Then hit it from the rear with a suitable hammer and punch. (This is not good becasue you are so close to the electronic terminals of the pressure sensor). Best to get a puller if you can. Oil will run out once the flange is removed.
8. You now have access to the pump and oil filter. Remove the 2 x allen bolts on both and gently prise out. The filter will just come out because there is a spring between the cover and the filter.
9. I went for my dinner and let the oil drain out. Approx 1 hour.
10. wipe out the holes. don't be tempted to use an airline as this might blow particles into the ports of your AOC.
11. Clean off the pump, same again wipe.
12. fit new style filter. (see gallery)
13. Re- fit pump
14. Fill with volvo AOC oil. I used an old atf bottle. I managed to get 400mls in it but I suspect thats because the car is jacked up. I will remove the bung again on the level.
15. Re-fit the prop flange taking cared to align your marks. Fit nut and tighten. Mine went back slightly tighter than my mark.
16. Re-fit prop same again aligning your marks, tighten each bolt a small amount so it pulls the cv joint centre back in gradually. check and double check those bolts
17. re-fit DEM module.
18. re-fit exhaust.
Thats it, Battery lead back on, switch back on and listen for pump going.
Take for a test drive and when you get back look for oil leaks.
I hope its a long time before I have to do this again, but I have a friend with an xc70 and I'm sure I will end up doing it as well.
Also the old oil was much thicker than the new and it has blobs of what looked like litium grease (see pic) but that was all no metal or hard bits.
Have fun.
Niguk68.

Its been a while since I last looked at this. Sold my xc70 over 2 years ago. I am curently working for a Landrover dealership. Most of the Landrover small 4x4 use this system. I want to share a possible step with you all that will make life much easier. From step 7 once the prop is off you can remove the 4 bolts 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom of the casing. Then the whole unit comes out and you can take it to your bench. Thats what we do with freelanders, early disco sports and evoques. Also allows you to clean the casing out properly and the clutch. Probably best to buy a new large o ring. I have just bought a 2010 xc90 and will probably be doing this on it. I will take pics again. But this time I will be doing it at work.